How to become a legal Alien in China

When you travel by air to China, the flight attendent will hand out immigrartion forms that you need to fill in and hand over at immigration. If you turn the form, you will find the small print on the back of the departure card. Authorities ask you to register with the police shortly after arrival:

 "Aliens wishing to lodge at the home of a Chinese resident, at a foreign institution in China or at the home of an Alien in China shall register temporary accommodation."

Beijing Police Station

You won't believe, it took us three attempts.

Happy New Year from Harbin

Happy New Year ! and  thank you! to all Beijing Notebook readers, returning visitors, subscribed friends, friendly commenter, linked sites and sponsors for supporting this blog in many ways.

The above photo (via Reuters) shows fireworks over stunning ice sculptures in Harbin, northeast China during the 27th famous Ice and Snow Festival's official opening on January 5th, 2011.

The festivals starts every year in December and lasts until the end of February. It is extremely cold during this period in Harbin, it gets easily - 20 to - 30 degrees Celsius !, which allows ice sculptures to last long and to attract many visitors from all over China.

Harbin is only a two hours flight away from Beijing and could be an exciting weekend trip for the whole family!

Happy New Year,

suzie

Preparing for the trip to Beijing: Visa, Money & SIM card

Getting the visa from the Chinese Embassy was really easy. In Bangkok the agent fee for bringing the passports to the Embassy, filling out the application form and collecting the passport after 4 days was just 600 Baht (15 Euro). An Express Visa issued by the Chinese Embassy within 2 days was an extra 800 Baht (20 Euro).

So that's done.

Now, when we will arrive at the airport, I will change some money into the Chinese Currency. But you need to know that with an European Cash card (EC card) you can collect money at every ATM machine in Beijing. Not sure about the American ATM cards, but should be the same easy.

It just costs you the usual fee that you would pay in your hometown when not using the ATM machine of your bank. And of course credit cards are widely accepted. In the markets however, only when you have bigger amounts to pay. Not all boutiques and stands do have the facility and if they go, they like to charge 3-5 % on top for using a credit card. I recommend to have local cash when shopping in the markets. And evey market has several ATM machines to refill your wallet...

What to do when you are running late or got lost? Or book to book a massage or a table at a restaurant? Best thing is to have a Chinese prepaid SIM card to be more independent. Nowadays this is so easy. They sell the SIM cards upon arrival at the airport. So that's what I plan to do.

My friend in Beijing actually told me, he would have a SIM card for me. This is a very, very special and useful welcome service, that everyone who lives abroad in a country where you can buy prepaid phone cards could provide for their visitors. In that way you can make sure your family or friends do not get lost.

Planning a trip to Beijing

It has been two years and two months since we have left Beijing.
I always hesitated to go back.

First of all because I did not want to see my son cry at the airport when we would leave Beijing after a visit.

Now, I have to see my son cry for Germany (every now and then, but getting less) since we moved from Germany to Thailand. Is this then the right time to take him back to Beijing for a visit? Next week ?!

Maybe it will be fine for him.
And how about myself?
How will I feel when I see our old house ? My son's best friend still lives in the house next door ...
How will I feel when I will have to take a taxi and struggle with the driver, instead riding my bike freely or call our friendly driver who always knew the way best and around traffic jams ...

This might sound strange if you have never moved.
Can you imagine to travel back in time but not beiing able to recognize your old life?
I think it never works. Past is past.

But I always wanted to go back one day and see and remember and refresh memories. I also have promised to everyone.

And why not now? I am not getting younger...

As I said, we now live in Bangkok, which is 5 hours flight from Beijing. We are closer to China than the last two years while in Germany. This is one advantage.

Then we have a 10 days school holiday coming up. And every friend in Beijing will be in Beijing because they are all travelling right now during the golden week of October.

The third good reason why to travel to Beijing is a very good friend from Germany who will be in Beijing exactly at the same time. And guess how I met her? Through this blog ! But this is another story.
And she will probably help me to see Beijing through new eyes (and not my old past glasses).

And the fourth - and maybe best reason for my readers - is that finally this blog gets a fresh update !!!

So, this time I am writing as a traveller and not like a resident. First of all, I have to organize a visa. I could ask my travel agent here in Bangkok, the additional fee is reasonable. But maybe it will be interesting to visit the Chinese Embassy in person ?

First thing I noted today:

• I need a tourist visa, type "L" (the 2 pages application form can be downloaded from the internet)
• Visa approval (in Bangkok) takes 4 days, express visa will take 2 days (and higher fee).
• The Embassy is closed this week due to national holidays ...

Tonight, I am sitting in Bangkok planning a trip to Beijing to meet old friends and to shop. No pressure of sightseeing. Maybe the Great Wall of China, my favorite sight, together with my son and his friends.
Despite, I have no ticket and no visa, I am in a good mood. I am convinced, that this is the right time to go back and visit my ex hometown of three years!

PS: I have chosen Thai Airways over Air China.

Beijing City Guide by Design*Sponge

Maybe you already know design*sponge, a daily website dedicated to home and product design run by writer Grace Bonney. This extremely successful blog also has a growing collection of city guides, that are compiled with the help of readers. Design*Sponge city guide to Beijing is quiet a complete list of things to do & see in this fast changing city.

Like many others which are planning a trip to Beijing the authors of this city guide came across my blog. They liked the "great beijing home/decor shopping list from beijing notebook" and included a link to this blog.
Thanks for the mention !

I can recommend to check out this new online city guide as it is compiled just recently, in August 2009 and includes all the new stuff - and the old stuff that has not vanished.

Beijing Boutique Hotel: The Emperor

The Emperor Hotel is one of the few boutique hotels located right in the heart of Old Beijing. It is located close to the Eastern walls of the Forbidden City. Therefore, from the roof top of the hotel, from the gym & spa and the Yin Bar, you have fantastic views! Wangfujing Road, the pedestrian international shopping street with some other luxe hotels and Tiananmen Square are in walking distance.


Stylish rooms combining traditional culture and modern fashion. Complimentary 24h butler service for all rooms, flatscreen TV, Wireless Internet access, free minibar (?!) ...


The Emperor Suite - located on the South West corner of the hotel offers an exclusive private view on the Forbidden City - about 3999,00 CNY.


The gym & spa on the roof top with views over old Beijing, outdoor wading pool, hot tub and massage rooms.


The Yin Bar with views over the Forbidden City - you can rent the place for special occasion! - the photo was taken in June 2008, when we thought about hosting our farwell party here.


While looking up The Emperor on the www for actual pictures, I found often these two wrong information:
1) The Emperor Hotel is not the first Design Hotel in Beijing. It only opened in summer 2008, long after the Hotel Kapok which is another hipp boutique hotel in the neighbourhood of Old Beijing.
2) The Emperor Hotel is not located inside the Forbidden City


The Emperor
ADDRESS:
33 Qihelou Street
Dongcheng District
100006 Beijing, PR CHINA

ACCOMMODATION:
55 rooms including 9 suites

PRICE RANGE:
about 75 Euro (Superior Room) to 400 Euro (Emperor Suite)

ARCHITECTURE / INTERIOR DESIGN:
Graft Label


*
You might also like my post about Hip Hotels in China
*

Obscenely cheap LH airfare from China to Europe

Only on Wednesday and Thursday, June 17 and 18, you can book special online fares with Lufthansa from China to selected 8 destinations in Europe for as low as CNY2,880*.
*Excluding taxes and surcharges.

Isn't this unfair to the people in Europe who want to travel to China and have to pay double of that price with the same airline?

I am not willing to travel with any other airline, I suffer from fear of flying.
Have you read about my experience with Air China?

A Little Beijing: an anusual guide for unusual travellers

If a visitor to Beijing is walking through its amazing old hutongs (alleys) he might want to buy a postcard of the impressions he had to write home about. Then he or she will look around and realize that there are no decent postcards available (so far) in this (still slightly) communist country. And if it happens that this accidental traveller is a photographer and graphic designer, she might later come up with a creative idea.

Linzy Q., the accidental traveller, is a talented photographer and professional graphic designer based in Singapore. Also she is a passionated postcard writer and likes to discover places by walking, egg. Beijing. So she came up with this simple but beautiful idea of an unusual postcard guide for 7 Beijing walking tours. She made the pictures and styled the cards, published it in Singapore and won a design award. She even blogs about her project that has a modest name: A Little Beijing.


The idea is that the visitor just grabs about 10 postcards per tour and per day that guide him/her to touristic sights along non-touristic hidden gems or vice-versa. The Little Beijing project becomes interactive when users give feed-back on the blog or prove that the postcards have arrived.


The more pictures I see the more I want to own one Little Beijing postcard set myself. You do not necessarily need to write postcards, buy Chinese stamps and send them home (hoping that the postmen don’t like them too much…). You could keep them as souvenirs or stick them into your scratch book.

So far the Little Beijing guide is only available in a few bookstores in Hong Kong and Singapore or online via a little Beijing.

I recommended Linzy to get in contact with shops in Nanluogu Xiang Hutong (near the Drum Tower) in Beijing. They sell unique Beijing souvenirs beside their own branded products. Also the Beijing Bookworm in Sanlitun would be an excellent selling point for this visionary guide. I would guess that the expat crowd will jump on it what makes the perfect gift for birthdays, newcomers, visitors and farewell parties.

A big thanks to Lara Dunston from cooltravelguide who gave me the hint and posted about it here.

-----------------------------------------------
Interview with Linzy Q, the maker of A Little Beijing (via mail) :

BN: Linzy, how did you come up with the tours? Did you walked them by yourself, did you ask friends?

Linzy: I came up with a 7 day guide of places that I’ve been to or stumbled upon that i think is interesting. Back then, I was constantly surprised by new findings. While heading to a place, I’ll find something else along the way.

BN: How many tours do you suggest? Do they have names?

Linzy: Each day is differentiated by a different colour so easier for navigation on the main map. each card is numbered, with the name of the place. egg. 3.07 (http://alittlebeijing.blogspot.com/2008/03/to-ilsy.html) would be the 7th card of day 3, with "Nightlife by the lake" being the title. there are also cards like 6.02 where it's a record of my feelings for a place rather than just a proper write-up introduction.

I see this whole guide as a documentation of my Beijing and by passing this guide on to others, it would become theirs. When they write their thoughts over and send it out, the whole project becomes interactive.

BN: Who is your target group? Chinese and foreigners?

Linzy: adventurous travellers who are looking for more beyond the basic touristy attractions.

BN: Where did you realize your idea? Where is it printed? Singapore?

Linzy: yup, everything was done back here in Singapore.

BN: Are you a graphic designer? Photographer?

Linzy: I'm a graphic designer and photography is my way of remembering things/people/places/events.

BN: Do you collect postcards from where you travel?

Linzy: I do!!! I have this habit of collecting postcards and sending them back to family and friends when I’m travelling.

BN: You plan this for other cities?

Linzy: yup, definitely.

Thanks for the interview and all the best for your project and the ones to come!

(Photo Source: Linzy Q)

100 Best Travel Journal Blogs

Beijing Notebook, along with 99 other blogs, was voted as one of "100 Best Travel Journal Blogs" by TravelHacker.

Thank you! I feel honored to belong to such an interesting community of travel blogs.

I was informed about the result over a month ago. But as blogspot was blocked here in China for a long time and even the proxy servers couldn't help everyday, I could not post about it.

The more glad I am to see some traffic from TravelHacker's list.
For free virtual travel fun surf the list.

Clean up time in Beijing

It is clean up time in Beijing. Not really that type of spring cleaning a housewife would do to let freely flow the 'qi'. It is about a severe clean up time before the Olympics.





Three important things to know:

1) the visa policy has changed
2) you need to register at the local police station
3) carry an ID with you at any time

1) About the visa:
Beijing has stopped issuing multiple-entry visas, causing inconvenience to foreigners who travel to the mainland regularly and to foreign residents. Apparently this new policy only stays in place until after the Olympic Games.
Travelers are now restricted to single or double-entry visas valid for 30 days only. Multiple-entry visas that have not expired are still valid.

2) About the local police registration:
Beijing police requires foreign residents to register at the local police station within 24 hours after returning from each trip abroad. This requirement applies even if the temporary residence permit has not expired.

I am not sure since when this is in place, but I got a call in February from our compound's receptionist that they want our passports and visas copied because of a new regulation. So I guess, if you life in a compound that owns your rented house/apartment, they can organize it for you. Same as a hotel will organize the registration for its hotel guests.

3) About carrying your ID
If you are controlled by the police and you cannot identify yourself with an ID, passport or driving license, the police might take you to the police station for interrogation and you might have to pay a huge fine (I heard up to 1000 Euro?)

And I heard the story of some international school children that were controlled by police in Sanlitun and as they couldn't show their IDs they were taken to the police station. In a scary way, with plastic bags over their heads and they were not allowed to call their parents for three hours! What a terrible story! In Sanlitun where I live - I needed to search the Internet tonight...

And yes, the story took place. But it was not in the middle of the day after school on the way home (as I have first pictured), but still ...

Read about it here:

'Chinese torturing foreign teens in drugs bust', by journalist Richard Spencer in Beijing, 07/04/2008

and here

Drug raid in Sanlitun sees more than 20 arrested, by Beijing Boyce blog

Picture source: Plastered 8

Never again: Air China

Lately I had my first flight with Air China and I thought it worth a blog post. This in mind and encouraged by Maryam's post about her bad experience with Turkish Airlines I came across Kim's post about the best and the worst international airlines and her link to airline quality surveyor Skytrax. I checked some of the over 260.000 airline reviews by independent travelers. I saw that everybody who travels can tell good and bad stories about airlines, even about the same airline. There are some real strange stories that made me I feel lucky to not have experienced worse.

The thing is, the more I fly the less I am looking forward to all the hassle. Until you board you are often already exhausted and thirsty. With all the worries I have about arriving safe and sound, the first thing I do when coming on board, I look at the flight attendants. These are the ladies and gentlemen I am depending on in the next hours. Will we get along? If they are nice and attentive it gives me a better feeling. Also everything should be clean and tidy. If it looks already bad from the inside, how was the plane serviced from the outside?

So far I have always avoided flying Air China as it is well known that 90% of their pilots speak and understand only poor English. Communication problems between the tower and the pilots during take off and landing as well as between the pilots and the air controllers in the various air spaces that the plane has to fly through can be fatal.

But from Rome back to Beijing I had no other chance then to fly with Air China. The flight that was code shared with Alitalia. I upgraded my son and myself with miles to Business Class to have a relaxed night flight.

And here is what I did not enjoy:

- The big Chinese group that tried to cut the line at the check-in counter. It has nothing to do with Air China, except that it is a Chinese Airline with many Chinese passengers, so you get a quick introduction into Chinese habits.
- First shock: old uncomfortable business class seats like 20 years ago with foot rest only and the least legroom I can remember. If the passenger in front of you leans back with his seat he lands in your soup (I talk about Business Class)
- The toilet already smells from urine before passenger board
- one out of the two available toilets in the BC has a broken water supply, only boiling water comes out, washing hands is impossible!
- The only Chinese flight attendants do not smile and their English is very limited. One even seems to avoid servicing me and my child in order to avoid any language problem.
- Before take off the lights go out completely (no emergency light on the floor), we are for several minutes in the dark, no captain announcement
- No individual entertainment program, no magazines. The two overhead monitors show a Chinese folklore performance, later one movie
- Bad behaving Chinese passengers: using mobile phone through taxi although flight attendant had finally repeated the regulations. And later at night, shouting passengers, almost rioting and using the English "f" word, waking everybody up. It seems that a Chinese man felt disturbed by a Chinese woman behind him nestling in her seat bag and interrupting his sleep. No flight attendant in sight.
- Repeated smoking in the toilet. I can smell this through 5 rows - however indifferent pilot and flight attendant, 2000 yuan fine is ignored. I can smell that the flight attendant himself had smoked.
- More dirty toilets and toilet seats as the Chinese stand on the toilet seats....
- Before landing wrong English announcement (suggestion not to wear coats because it is warm outside... the opposite is the case, it is winter). Okay minor, but in emergency case I hope for the right announcements in English.
- After landing in Beijing, Air China's home base, we are on a far away outside position and need to wait for stairs and bus which does not bother me anymore.

BTW, the food seemed okay. I only had lost appetite after a couple of visits to the toilet (I am travelling with a child).

Am I spoiled? No. If you book business class it is because you want to rest and sleep and arrive relaxed. Other Asian airlines (e.g. Cathay, Singaporean, Emirates) are providing a better Economy Class then this Air China Business Class.

Why is Air China not using their new airplanes on all international flights? I heard that they have the newest seats on flights between Shanghai and Beijing. Air China, although an international airline, seems not yet prepared to serve international passengers.

Beijing vs Dubai

Beijing is not the biggest construction field on earth. It is Dubai.

Last year, when I travelled for a short trip to Dubai, I learned that 30% of all cranes in the world are located in China (less than half of these in Beijing).

However in Dubai alone are 15% of all cranes in the world!

Cool Travel Guide mentiones Beijing Notebook

Lara Dunston is a travel writer who has authored 20 guidebooks for Lonely Planet and DK, and myriad stories for glossies & papers around the globe, including National Geographic Traveler, The Independent, Lifestyle+Travel, Paperplane and USA Today. She travels and writes with her partner Terry. They have been living out of suitcases since 21 months now. Lara recently began her Cool Travel Guide blog where she writes about the places, people and things she thinks are cool and does not write about in the guidebooks.

She came across my blog via My Marrakesh and we have been emailing a bit about our travel and writing experiences. Last week she posted about me and my two blogs. Thank you for the mentioning, Lara. I will follow your travel journal and see all the cool things and links you will come up next with.

5 Things To Do when in Beijing

1. Great Wall in Mutianyu
Visiting the Great Wall is a must and the most impressing sight in China. From Beijing downtown to Mutianyu it is about 1.5 hours to drive. It is not the closest part of the wall, but the best if you want to be away from the crowd. You can take the gondola / cable car (which Bill Clinton has taken). On top of the wall walk to the left, where you are almost for yourself.

If you walk to the right, there might be more people and it is a more steep way down. But at the end you can go on a fun sleigh ride back to the parking area. - Toilets near the parking are okay.

Remark: A great alternative to Mutianyu is the "Commune at the Great Wall" for its architectural expo of houses that are actually for rent from the Hotel. They have private access to the Great Wall. Follow a hidden path through a forest up hill and enjoy about 1 km of not restored wall. Ask at the reception for directions. For special occasion (pack a bottle of Champagne in your backpack). 
www.commune.com.cn


2. Forbidden City
You can spend here several days or just 1.5 hours to get an overview. Enter from the South Gate (north of Tiananmen) and walk to the North Gate. Make sure you enter at least 2 hours before they close. At the moment a major part is under renovation for the Summer Olympics in 2008. Workers and bamboo scaffold might appear in your pictures.


3. Further sightseeing can include 5 more spots:
--> Drum Tower and Houtongs around here and around Houhai Lake (Hutong tour by bike or rikshaw is a nice experience)
--> Summer Palace (partly under renovation)
--> Lama Temple (the Confucius Temple opposite is still closed for renovation)
--> Temple of Heaven with its park (across the Pearlmarket...)
and on a weekend
--> Panjiayuan Antique market (I know, this could belong to number 4 'shopping' but it is sightseeing as well!), see also my other post


4. Shopping
I love Beijing for its shopping adventures. Shopping here is just so different from the western world. Of course nowadays, new malls with international labels open up every month. But still, it can be an adventure browsing the markets. It is amazing what you get for little money. Of course the very cheap shirts, pearls, bags, watches etc. lack quality. So you have to take a very close look on what you buy. I really mean close: turn the sweater inside out and check the sewing, check for spots, holes. Try the zip twice of jackets and bags. Turn the JL Coultre watch around for surprises. - Pull it, knock it, cut or bite it (pearls) - You can find original brand stuff, but remember that it might be in the market because it is faulty. The Chinese do quality control. But the good quality is exported abroad. The bad quality is sold off in the markets in China. Or the clothes are from old collections from years ago. Or it is from over-production. And even sometimes things can be 'fallen from the truck'. Anyway, the patient hunter can find real good things. Check my shopping & bargain guide.


By now you might be hungry and we come to point 5.

5. Eating experience
As in every capital in the world, Beijing offers a wide range of international restaurants. But to impress visitors, I would take them to:
- Whampoa Club ($$$$), Nouvelle Beijing Cuisine in courtyard house, modern Chinese decor, cosy bar, private dining possible
- Green t. house ($$$), fantastic decor and creative menu
- The Courtyard ($$$$), window seats with view on the Forbidden City (no yard)
- Made in China ($$$), unique restaurant in the Hyat Hotel for Beijing Duck, book a table by the open kitchen
- Duck King ($), for Beijing Duck
- Bellagio ($), spicy Taiwanese food and great mango deserts, fast service, late dining, no reservation, a bit hectic
- Source ($$), set menu in a renovated Courtyard house, nice sitting in the yard
- Red Capital Club ($$$), renovated Courtyard house, waitresses in Mao-style uniforms
- Lan Restaurant ($$$), Philippe Starck's latest creativity outburst
- Hatsune ($$), best fusion Japanese (American Style) restaurant in town

I can recommend these as I like them myself. I will post address and telephone numbers later.

Was this post helpful? Do you want to know more about Beijing? Come visit this blog again. (updated September 2007)

Photo by musicmuse

Hip Hotels in China

This is the cover of the Chinese ELLE Decor magazine in May. It features an article about new Hip Hotels in China. Although I cannot read Chinese, I can look at the pictures and follow websites.

So, today, I post for you this list of newly opened Hip Hotels featured by ELLE Decor China, in case you plan to visit:

Hotel Kapok, Beijing
Newly opened stylish Boutique Hotel in the heart of Beijing with bamboo-Zen atrium. Just steps from the Forbidden City and the shopping area around Wangfujing. The calming suites have glass-walled bathrooms. Bicycles are available for rent to discover old Beijing. Website in Chinese and English. 89 rooms.
16 Donghuamen Dajie, Dongcheng, phone 6525 9988

Hotel Kapok Beijing

Lapis Casa, Shanghai
This new charming boutique hotel with 20 uniquely furnished rooms, makes a great getaway in the heart of trendy Xintiandi. If you want to replicate the look at home, the furnishing and accessories are for sale in the Lapis Casa shop.
18 rooms from 1500 - 2500 RMB.
68 Taicang Road, Shanghai, phone 5382-1600

Pier One - M Suites, Shanghai
In May 2006, Pier One, a new hospitality complex, opened its doors to the public. The stunning 1930's Art Deco Building (by architect L.E. Hudec), a former brewery, surrounded by gardens and Suzhou Creek and with its modern interior design gives customers a perfect setting for romantic dining or corporate events. Pier One is the home of four individual venues: Mimosa Supperclub, Monsoon Lounge Bar, Club Minx and since December 2006 the 'M SUITES', a 24-room boutique hotel. It has rooms overlooking the river, and a sleek, stylish design. 24 rooms, 980 - 2880 RMB.
88 Yi Chang Road, Suzhou Creek, Shanghai, China / phone (21) 5155 8318 / info@pierone.cn

House of Shambhala, Lasha, Thibet
House of Shambhala has opened in May 2006 and is located in a traditional Tibetan courtyard house, the type favored by nobility and high-ranking lamas in days gone by. Located in a quiet alley of the Barkor within the heart of old Lhasa, House of Shambhala is a realm of serenity for travelers to the “Land of Snows” on “The roof of the world”. It merges boutique hotel escape, yoga-spa center, fine dining and teahouse all linked through dedication to Tibetan ethnicity, architectural heritage preservation and culturally sustainable development. It is part of the Red Capital Group. 10 rooms from 1000 to 1320 RMB per night.

Shama Luxe at Xintiandi, Shanghai
100 design serviced apartments from 32000 RMB per month.
Block 18 Lakeville Regency, Lane 168 Shun Chang Road, Luwan District, Shanghai 200021, China, phone +86-21-6385 1818

Fortune Land International Hotel, Beijing
This Design Hotel offers 168 artistic rooms within Beijing’s Central Business District (CBD). 1088 - 2788 RMB.
38 Baiziwan Road, Beijing , 100022 China, phone +86 10 877 18866, fax +86 10 877 62556

La Faeux Casual Hotel, Shanghai
32 rooms, 258 - 1300 RMB
127 Fanyu Road, phone 5258 8585
www.lafaeux.com

*

ELLE Decoration China mentioned as well the following 'older' Hip Hotels:

88 Xintiandi, Shanghai (since 2001)
Commune by the Great Wall, Beijing (since 2002)
Fuchun Resort, Hangzhou (since 2004)
Banyantree, Lijiang (since 2005)
No. 9
Jia Shanghai
PUDI
W Hotel

I would also add the Red Capital Residence and the Red Capital Ranch, both part of the Red Capital Group, Beijing.

*

The descriptions of the hotels I got partly from Elle Decor (I can read room numbers, and rates and opening dates) partly from the hotel's website or other websites, partly from Luxe City Guide Beijing for Hotel Kapok.

Personally, I have seen Hotel Kapok, The Emperor and The Opposite House. I like them all. They are all in great locations. The two first just next to the Forbidden City and the latter in Sanlitun.

Area codes / prefix phone numbers in China:
+ 86 for China
+ 86 - 10 for Beijing / in China: 010-
+ 86 - 21 for Shanghai / in China: 021-

Exchange rate: 100 RMB = about 10 Euro = about 12 USD

Charming Courtyards in Beijing

A courtyard house is the most charming way to live in Beijing. But not the most convenient one. There are only few courtyards available that have bathrooms and electricity. They are difficult to access because hutongs are long small one way alleys. And, it is a fairly new and not a very transparent market. You have to ask around. Renovated hutongs are gone fast. To find one and convince a landlord to renovate it (with your money) or to buy one is even more difficult. A courtyard purchase is several times more complex than buying a house anywhere else as you find yourself confronted with six or more owners and their support team of 20 or more extended relatives (see Tom's Hutongs for rent here). And then at the end, you never know how long your new investment is save from the Beijing's bull-dozers (see post from Daily Telegraph's China Correspondant Richard Spencer). Because Beijing's preservation plan seems not always to protect where it was supposed to.

*

For the moment, I suggest, the easiest was to enjoy the charming courtyards is to have dinner at one of the many restaurants located in courtyard houses.

HERE IS A LIST OF COZY COURTYARD RESTAURANTS FOR ROMANTIC RENDEZ-VOUS:

The Source
Superbly restored old Hutong House with delicious, spicy set menu (120 or 190 RMB).
14 Banchang Alley, Kuan Jie, Dongcheng, phone 6400 3736

Red Capital Club
Red Capital Restaurant opened in 1999, followed by Mr. Brahm's boutique hotel. Both are crammed with Mao-mentos - Cultural Revolution paintings and figurines, antique phones, radios and actual chairs from Zongnanhai. The courtyard restaurant can't be missed in the alley as Mrs. Mao's car is parked outside.
66, Dongsi Jiu Tiao, Dongsi Dajie.

Mei Fu or Mei's Mansion
Peking opera master Mei Langang's favorite dishes are served in this three-level courtyard house. Dinner is an experience in this low-lit, chic and contemporary, restored 200-year-old Hutong with its fountains and pebbles and simply furnished dining salons. Set menu, around 300 RMB per person. Little English is spoken.
24 Daxianfeng Hutong, Houhai, Xicheng, phone 6612 6845

Yi He Ya Ju
Very popular, very casual restaurant with two 'beer garden' like gardens. Ideal for lunch combined with a walk in Ritan park or shopping in this area. It serves a mix of Sichuan, Shandong, Cantonese, Beijing and Shanghai cuisine.
Northeast corner of Ritan Park, Cahoyang, 8561 7643
(some expats call it the 'hole in the wall restaurant', because of its entrance)

Dali Courtyard
Hidden off an Alley. Warm and rustic, with coal furnaces, and old jazz tunes.
67 Xiaojingchang Hutong, Gulou Dong Dajie, Dongcheng, phone 8404 1430

Huajia Yiyuan
Courtyard with painted girder and roofs. Beijing style food.
235 Dongzhimennei Dajie, phone 6405 1908

The Gourmet Room
A small courtyard with delicate cantonese food and good wine.
Mo - Thur 6 pm - 9.30 pm, Fri - Sun 11 am - 2 pm, 6 pm - 9.30 pm.
3 Qianhai Xijie, Shichahai, Xicheng District 3, phone 6613 9641

Yan Yi Shan Zhai Ge Ge Fu
Staff dressed in ancient Chinese costumes. The cuisine is the so-called 'official cuisine' and there are nutritional soups. (??)
11 am - 2 pm, 4.30 pm - 10.30 pm.
9 Daqudeng Hutong, Meishuguan Houjie, Dongcheng, phone 6407 8006

Tan Hua Xuan
Tanjia Cuisine featuring the best of all Chinese cuisines.
112 Gulou Xidajie, Xicheng, phone 6403 3171

Baijia Dazhaimen
Official cuisine served in a Qing Dynasty king's former residence.
15 Suzhou Jie, Haidan, phone 6265 4186

Family Yue's Banquet House
Nutrious soups in the backyard of a king's former residence (same king as above?...).
29 Suzhou Jie, Haidan, phone 8262 5960

Village of the beautiful stove
Local Jiangxi food prepared in porcelain pots and nutritious soups
11 Suzhou Jie, Haidan, phone 6253 8883

Gui Gong Fu's
two yards are the best part of the restaurants as the rooms are a bit dark. The courtyard is said to belong to Qing Dynasty (1644-1911) empress Cixi's brother. The restaurant is famous for its dishes made of tea ingredients, as well as for Cantonese and Sichuan cuisines. 10.30 am - 2 pm, 5 pm - 10.30 pm.
11 Dafangjia Hutong, Chaoyangmennei Nanxiao Jie, Dongcheng, phone 6512 7677

Bodhi-Sake
Plenty of space for outdoor and indoor dining. It's a three level courtyard house adapted from a nunnery where a Ming Dynasty (1368-1644) princess spent her life as a nun. Vegetarian food.
10 am - 10 pm. 200 meters north of North gate of Taoranting Park,
10-16 Heiyaochang Jie, Xuanwu District, phone 63557348

Courtyard No 28
Small restaurant with a big tree and three rooms decorated in ancient Chinese Style. Spicy Guilin and Sichuan food. 11 am - 11 pm.
1 Xilou Hutong, South of Lama Temple, Dongcheng, phone 8401 6788

Crabapple House
Inside simple and a bit dark, outside under wisteria vine two wooden benches. Menu in Chinese and quiet expensive. Maybe better for tea time in the garden.
32 Xuanwumen Xidajie, Xuanwu District, phone 8315 4678

*

Remark: There is this chic restaurant called The Courtyard, that is overlooking the moat and the Eastern wall of the Forbidden City. Despite its name it is not a typical courtyard house and offers elegant indoor dining. The contemporary art gallery has moved from the basement out of town to Shunyi. Instead you could dine very intimate with a cozy bed next to the table... Reservation some days in advance:
95 Donghuamen Dajie, Dongcheng, phone 6526 8883

*

Oh, well, I have to say, I did not know that there are sooo many courtyard restaurants. I have tried only three or four so far. And I will use this list to check them out one by one, as it is courtyard season right now!

*

One more thought after reading Richard Spencer's post and the comments... I have never before thought about what has happend to the former residents of a courtyard restaurant or bar. Were they forced out? Were they compensated accordingly? Not only modern developpment projects are a threat to hutong residents even restaurants and bars might be.

*

Sources:
- China Daily's Beijing Weekend Guide (May 18-20), list of romantic courtyard restaurants,
- Luxe City Guide Beijing for the review and addresses of the Source, Mei Fu, Dali Courtyard, The Courtyard,
- That's Beijing's tbjhome (May 2007) for the courtyard renovation and purchase articles 'Hutong Heaven' and 'This Courting Life' by Tom Luckock. For further info about renting, buying and renovating courtyards contact the writer at tomshutongs@hotmail.com or visit his website about his two renovated courtyard houses. One is for rent, and one is a Bed & Breakfast that will open during 2007.
- photo via Red Capital Club

My older post:Beijing Courtyard House sells for Record Price (April 2007)

Travel: Amazing Thailand

When we moved to Thailand back in 1998 the Tourism Authorities had launched the slogan 'Amazing Thailand'. It is so true. Thailand is amazing. It is now four years that we had to move on but we never stopped coming back once or twice a year. Whenever we arrive in the heat of Bangkok there is this amazing spell, 'smooth as silk', that makes us feel at ease right away.

It is the heat that makes me slow down, it is the smile in every face that makes me smile too. It is the lush green of the plants that pleases my eyes, it is the smell of frangipanis that seduces me. It is the respect paid to foreigners that makes me feel special. It is the affordable life style that makes me feel rich. It is the tropical design of fabrics and furniture that inspires me. It is the foot massages that makes me relax. It is the delicious food that makes me feel good. It is the daily sunshine that makes me happy. It is the tropical rain that I love. It is the white beaches and the warm turquoise sea that makes me dream.
- What a wonderful country! -


Photos:
Above: Thai woman making the 'wai' from Marriott Hotel Phuket website
Mosaic from left: Jim Thompson Andaman Sea Fabric collection from Elle Decoration Thai Issue, Sala at the Marriott Phuket from website, Oriental Hotel Bangkok Authors Wing form website, Frangipani, Bird of Paradise, Opium daybed;

Travel: The Golden Week

Millions of people are leaving town. This is Golden Week in China to celebrate May 1st. Many families go to the beaches with their kids for the fresh air. Most popular destinations are Thailand, Malaysia, Vietnam and Singapore. Also Hainan is an option.

We are off to Thailand, where we spent many happy years. It is still our home of hearts. We are going to see old friends and spend time at the beach (yes, it is the one in the picture ...)

I am back Monday in a week and will provide many travel links for my favorite spots in my favorite Asian country.

Travel: Shanghai, Shanghai

Shanghai is more packed, more modern and more sexy than Beijing. Shanghai's skyline on both sides of the river is more impressing than the one of Hong Kong. But Shanghai has at least as many construction fields as Beijing. Beijing prepares for the Olympic Games in 2008 while Shanghai prepares for the Expo 2010. It is sad to see how many old Chinese quarters still are vanishing. With the 24/7 construction of skyscrapers the skyline of Pudong is changing every day. Shanghai reminds many people of New York, especially in Pudong. Shanghai is an exiting city for singles and young couples with double income no kids.

It definitely worth to visit the 'Pearl of the Orient'. Shanghai has many stylish restaurants and bars. But it does not have that many cultural sites as Beijing does. Most of the Chinese heritage can be seen in the lanes of the Old Town, that some call 'Chinatown'. I think this is significant when you have to call part of a Chinese city that way. Everything is going global, exchangeable. Starbucks is everywhere. And don't miss the beautiful Yu Garden (entrance fee raised up to 40 yuan). My favorite place were the lanes in Old Town and between here and the French Concession. The contrast of old Chinese style and new modern style is very photogenic. The best time in Shanghai is nighttime when the city is illuminated like electricity is for free. The views of the Bund and of Pudong are overwhelming. At 10.30pm the lights are switched off, but the bars are open until 2am and the crowed is pretty chic as well.

If you are interested in some pictures from my weekend in Shanghai, please visit my Shanghai Set at flickr. I am going to upload more pictures in the next days.

My collection of Shanghai travel links ...

... for the Bund, where 'previous taipans (heads of trading houses) erected monuments of wealth':
- Bar Rouge at Bund 18 for overwhelming night views over Pudong and the Bund
- New Heights at Three on the Bund for casual lunches or dinners with splendid 180 degree views of the Bund and Pudong

... for Xintiandi, the new 'old style' eating, drinking & shopping area:
- About Shanghai's living room Xintiandi and the one year old magazine 'Zing'
- Green Massage for a foot massage
- Shanghai Tang for Chinese style silk dresses and accessories
- Shanghai Trio for Chinese style casual wear and accessories
- Lehman & Qian for gorgeous Chinese Interior Decoration
- There are lots of trendy bars and restaurants in Xintiandi. For a drink I liked the stylish 'TMSK' Bar. But you can also find Starbucks and Paulaner.

... for Pudong, the Chinese Manhattan across the river:
- Cloud 9 & The Sky Lounge on the 87th and 88th Floor of the Grand Hyatt in Jin Mao Tower
- Jade 36, restaurant and bar in the Shangrila Hotel, 36th floor

... for Museums:
- Shanghai Art Museum, contemporary art exhibitions and host of the Shanghai Biennale - if it is lunchtime go to the 5th floor of the museum to Kathleens 5, a restaurant on the roof top with views over the People's Park
- Museum of Contemporary Art (MOCA)
- Shanghai Museum, museum of ancient Chinese art

...for City Info:
- Wallpaper City Guide: Shanghai for the 'design-conscious traveller'
- LUXE City Guides: Shanghai, 'a glam little pocket-sized companion'
- Shanghai Daily newspaper

Photo source: Shanghai Tang Authentics brochure

Gone travelling...

I am on my way to Shanghai. It is my first time. I am looking forward to this city with that exotic sounding name. I wish my plane would be able to travel back in times... in a time when Marguerite Duras was writing 'L'amant'... how exotic would that be?