Beijing: 1949 - The Hidden City

1949 - The Hidden City will be a new hot spot in Sanlitun opening in late March 2008.

It is a "multi-restaurant and bar siheyuan, resurrected from China's modern history, located in the heart of Sanlitun. With over 40 mature trees, the 1949 - Hidden City is 6,000 square meters of neo-chic walled privacy nestled in Beijing's party district. Featuring indoor and outdoor restaurants, cafés, bars, gardens, terraces, event spaces, a private members' club, and a contemporary art gallery, 1949 - The Hidden City takes the concept of the commune to a new level of get-down harmony."

This was quoted from the press release.

And I saw it, the work is in process, the interior not ready, but from what I saw, it will be a hit. It will be better, nicer, cosier and hopefully more authentic than the Shanghai Xintiandi area. 1949 (or nineteenfortynine) is located behind the Pacific Century Place in Gongti Beilu. It is on the areal of a former factory and recovers one red brick building from it. The new buildings around are build from the same material, red bricks, using additionally lots of glass and wood. The buildings are lay outed and connected like in a traditional siheyuan, a courtyard house.

What is the meaning of '1949'?
It was in 1949, when the Communist army, the People’s Liberation Army, formally entered Beiping in January and, and gave the new capital the name "Beijing". On October 1st 1949, Mao announced the formation of the People’s Republic of China.


At 1949 on offer soon: (see my comments in italic)

Gallery49
Join Gallery49 in an open, forum of discussion with artists who are currently under the spotlight in the contemporary Chinese art milieu. Debut exhibition starts early April. (The gallery space it self is very limited but the art can/will be on display all over 1949. A sculpture garden is planned.)

Sugar Bar
Café of choice for all in the area who know and love good coffee, and all things sweet. (This sounds very promising!! And it is located in a glass house - although Comptoire de France will not be easy to beat, maybe design wise)

Duck De Chine
Beijing's most innovative duck restaurant. Authentic Peking Duck sits well with some of France's best loved renditions of the noble bird … all washed down by the best beverage accompaniment, Bolli Champagne!
(uuuh... what a combination?!)

1/5 taverna
1/5 taverna is Beijing's 'escape' restaurant and drinking spot. In a rustic-chic warehouse-inspired space, share comfort food, dance on the table, play a tambourine. Over to you! (Originally they planned a Mexican restaurant with live Mariachi music... although I love Mexican food, even that type of music - but please, only in Mexico! Not in a siheyuan in Beijing.)

Noodle Bar
Noodle Bar is Beijing's best kept secret for those looking for a traditional, integrity-filled, artisanal, hand-pulled wheat noodle experience.
(It seats only 12 people around a square light wooden bar, no reservations will be taken)

1/5
Ultra-lounge bar and loft. Featured DJ gets down with old-school sounds whilst bartenders put the perfect drink in the mix.
(This is in the building that is claimed to be part of the original factory. Will be a great bar over two floors)

Well Bar
We made use of an old fire-fighting water well and turned it into an outdoor beer bar. Shady trees, ice-cold 1949 beer.
(They even plan to brew their own beer... I guess, Tsingtao or Heineken will also on the list. The outdoor bar is the spot in the middle of everything).

Club49
A private members club devoted to cuisine, fine wine and art culture enthusiasts; Club49 is Beijing's only club that harmonizes good taste, good fortune, and the good life. (Targeted on rich Chinese, I guess.)


Who is behind this entertainment project? 1949 is conceived by Elite Concepts, one of the Asia’s leading hospitality groups. Founded in Hong Kong in 1991 by Paul Hsu, Elite Concepts manages a diverse portfolio of restaurants & bars in Hong Kong, Shanghai and Jakarta. Outlets in Hong Kong include yè shanghai in Pacific Place; cinecittà and 1/5 nuevo; Dirty Duck Diner at The Broadway, Wanchai and yè shanghai Kowloon at the Marco Polo Hongkong Hotel. Outlets in Shanghai include yé shanghai in Xintiandi, yé shanghai in Pudong, the naked cow on Dan Shui Lu and Deng G on the Bund, our new Sichuan restaurant.

Remark: I had the chance to visit the project earlier this months (and posted briefly about that). As the press release is out, I think I can also advertise with some pictures.

Beijing de Luxe: Cool Visits, Sees & Tastes

Visiting Beijing? Looking for something special, something 'de luxe'? Check my special list compiled for the relaxed visitor:

3 Beijing VISITS for body and soul:

Bodhi
Working and sightseeing in Beijing can be exhausting. One of the best pit-stops to pamper yourself is this little massage hideaway in tropical style. You can choose from a simple 80 min. foot massage to body treatments and facials in private rooms. Sheela’s Nails next to the reception is highly recommended for efficient manicure and pedicure. Although white is beautiful in Asia, a tanning studio is in the same building upstairs.
17 Gongti Bei Lu
Chaoyang District, Beijing
11:00am – 00:30am
Massage booking: 6417 9595 or reservation@bodhi.com.cn
www.bodhi.com.cn
Booking manicure & pedicure: 6416 0786
11:00am –1:00pm

Commune by the Great Wall
If you need more than a pit-stop and maybe even want to leave the city behind you, than the Commune by the Great wall with the Anantara Spa is your weekend hideaway. Commune by the Great Wall is a collection of contemporary architecture designed by 12 Asian architects. It was exhibited and awarded at the 2002 Biennale in Venice. You can spend the night in one of the 11 villas (up to 24,883 RMB) or in a standard room (special rates start at 988 RMB). During the day you may discover modern architecture, climb the Great Wall and select from various massage therapies and exotic body treatments. Kids are perfectly occupied at the well equipped kids club.
Commune by the Great Wall (managed by Kempinski)
Shuiguan Mountains
Booking and enquiries: 8118 1888, Anantara Spa ext. 5100
www.commune.com.cn

C. de France
This fresh aesthetic looking Hair & Beauty Salon has just opened in tiny Nali Mall. The owner Catherine Colin, ex-hairstylist from Eric Paris, is well appreciated by the expat community. Get a free manicure during your hair cut or highlights. Looking pretty drop into award winning restaurant Alameda for lunch (Lunch Rapido 60 RMB), but make sure you’ve booked a table ahead.
Nali Mall, Sanlitun North Bar Street
C. de France: 6417 3029 or reservation@cdefrance.com
www.cdefrance.com
Alameda: 6417 8084


3 Beijing SEES:

The Great Wall
Have private access to the Great Wall at "Commune by the Great Wall". Follow a hidden path through a forest up hill and enjoy about 1 km of not restored wall. Ask at the reception for directions.
www.commune.com.cn

Mei Lanfang’s former Residence
Visiting the famous Beijing Opera star’s former residence is an all in one experience: discover the beauty of a courtyard house (siheyuan), see a collection of traditional Chinese paintings and calligraphy, learn about Beijing Opera and stroll the neighbouring hutong alleys to explore local life in old Beijing.
9 Huguosi Lu,
Xicheng District
6618 0351
Tue-Sun, April-November 9am-4pm, 10 RMB entrance fee
www.meilanfang.com.cn

Royal Canal Boat Tour to the Summer Palace
Cruise the imperial canal in a traditional canopy boat underneath old stone bridges and along green shores. First stop at the Purple Bamboo Garden to stroll in the park to meet local amateurs of the community singing. Second stop mid-route, to walk along hidden paths to explore one neglected Indian style stone pagoda temple and a delicate Longevity Temple that served as a rest place for emperors.
To book via Chinese Culture Club, RMB 200 (www.chinesecultureclub.org)


2 Beijing TASTES:

Made in China
You cannot leave Beijing without having tried a Beijing Duck. The trendiest way to enjoy the Beijing Duck is at this unique restaurant. Book a table by the open kitchen. Have a drink after dinner at the elegant Redmoon bar just opposite the entrance.
1/F Grand Hyatt Hotel
1 Dongchang’ An Jie
Dongcheng District, Beijing
85181234 ext. 3608
Lunch 11:30 am to 2:30 pm
Dinner 5:30 pm to 10:00 pm
Redmoon Bar 5:00pm to 1 am (Sun-Thu), to 2 am (Fri, Sat)
www.hyatt.com

Whampoa Club Beijing
Exported from Shanghai to Beijing, located in one of the last courtyard houses in the Financial District, this new highlight of Beijing’s club scene features a restaurant, a bar, a private dining room and a courtyard for al fresco dining. The internationally acclaimed chef Jereme Leung serves inspiring New Beijing Cuisine in a modern Chinese setting.
23 A Jinrong Dajie (Financial Street)
Xi Cheng District, Beijing, China
8808 8828
11:30am to 10:00pm
www.whampoaclub.com

New Highlight: Whampoa Club Beijing

Paris is romantic even on a grey rainy day. Venice is romantic especially on a grey foggy day. But Beijing's grey smog days are just depressing. For curing your depression in Beijing have a dinner at the new Whampoa Club and it will delight all your senses.


In Shanghai, the Whampoa Club at Thee on the Bund is already an established and successful venue. Now, the internationally acclaimed chef Jereme Leung has opened the stunning Beijing branch in a siheyuan (courtyard house) on Financial Street. He formulates his own creative New Beijing cuisine by taking inspiration form Beijing's imperial cuisine, imperial high official home cuisine, citizen cuisine, minority cuisine and temple cuisine. With modern and stylish presentation, Whampoa Club Beijing is guaranteed to delight and inspire lovers - and even non-lovers - of Chinese food.

The set lunch menu starts at 288 yuan, the set dinner menu at 488 yuan per person. The appetizers are fabulous. Especially the delicious soy-braised pomfret fillet terrine and the cabbage and spinach rolls with shrimps and scallops, flavoured with yellow mustard and wasabi jelly (left pic). My favorite main course were the Beijing pancakes with goose liver and pork fillings (right pic).

The restaurant is in the basement of the courtyard house. You can either book a table in the main dining room or in one of the more intimate separés that seats two to six people but still leave you the view of the main restaurant. The service is efficient and friendly.

Whampoa Club wouldn't be a club without a cosy stylish bar. For your private party you might rent a dining room that hosts up to 12 guests or the outside courtyard itself for a bigger event.

The interior of the courtyard house is decorated in a clean modern Chinese style. The spectacular bird cage lamps setting (above pic) is downstairs before entering the restaurant. The restrooms are more appealing than the dark unisex 'powder rooms' by Philippe Starck at the overall more kitsch-opulently decorated Lan Club.

Conclusion: Whampoa Club Beijing delights all your senses. It is an inspiring experience and a great enrichment for the restaurant scene in Beijing.

Price category: $$$

Whampoa Club Beijing
Financial Street 23 A
Xi Cheng District, Beijing, China
phone (+86 10) 8808 8828

link: Whampoa Club

Beijing and What to Do with your Time

You are a local, an expat, an expat spouse or a visitor with no tight 3-day-sightseeing-schedule and have been there and done it all.

So what you do with your free time?

Here is my little BRAINSTORM - so no judgement, just more ideas please:

Learning and practicing
* ... Chinese (two to there time per week is recommended)
* ... Tai Chi / Tai Qi
* ... painting (traditional Chinese Style: ink and wash)
* ... calligraphy
* ... photography (to document the fading beauty)
* ... yoga
* ... mahjong (to get a feeling for decadent but fun gambling)
* ... acupuncture (you might practice after you have your certificate)

Hearing lectures about
* ... Traditional Chinese Medicine / TCM
* ... Feng Shui (not that popular in Beijing)

* Reading books about China, Chinese Culture and history

* Massage (traditional Chinese Foot Massage or Body Massage, no oil - at Tai Pan, Bhodi or Dragonfly)

* Pedicure and Manicure (cheaper than in the West)

* Writing about your impressions for the media back home, local media or on your blog

Meeting people with
* Chinese Culture Club (weekly activities, lectures and trips)
* INN - International Newcomer's Network (monthly meeting, lectures)
* Deutsche Patengruppe (monthly get-together and trips)
* British Club
* several kids groups
* several interest groups that advertise in the local magazines

The different shopping:
* Shopping at the local food market (e.g. San Yuan Le market hall in Sanlitun)
* Shopping at Jiayi cloth market, opposite Kunlun Hotel (stressless than Yashow)
* Shopping at Ritan Office Building (building at the South-East of Ritan Park - in every former little office room is a little boutique with lots of real finds). After shopping stroll a bit through Ritan Park and have a drink at the Stone Boat Bar (at the West end of the park).

The different 'sight seeing':
* Riding the bicycle around the city (between first and third ring road)
* Strolling the hutongs around the Houhai area; rent a boat, bike or rikshaw
* spending hours at Chaoyang Park where children can go on merry-go-rounds and some old fashion fair rides, just walk around the greenery, have a picnic, rent a boat, tent or 'golf cart' (Chaoyang), observe locals working out ...
* ride a boat through the 800 year old canal between Forbidden City and Summer Palace. The tour usually includes stops at the Purple Bamboo Garden and a couple of temples (book e.g. with Chinese Culture Club about twice a month)
* go on a daytrip outside Beijing with the Beijing Excursion Guide by Immersion Guides

...

This is about how busy you could get as an expat spouse !

Links:
Deutsche Patengruppe
International Newcomer's Network
Chinese Culture Club
A Matter of Chi (pricy Feng Shui lecture)
Oriental Tai Pan (massage)
Bodhi (massage)
Dragonfly (massage)
City Weekend (events)
That's Beijing (7 Days in Beijing, events)
Beijing Excursion Guide

Beijing Opera Star: Mei Lanfang

Do you think this is a Chinese Princess from another time?
Yes and No.
This is Mei Lanfang (1894-1961), husband and father in the stage dress of a young woman - the only roles he played in Beijing Opera. Also called Peking Opera or Jingju Opera.
Mei Lanfang was born in an actors' family. He started to study Chinese Opera at the age of eight and performed for the first time when he was twelve. He also was the first Chinese to introduce Beijing Opera to the World with his tours to Japan in 1919 and 1924, to the US in 1930 and the USSR in 1932 and 1935.

He was not only a great actor, but also a painter. He studied Chinese painting with his painter friends every day. But later concentrated more on acting again as Beijing Opera requests not only talent for singing, but also for dancing and martial art. The singing is very different form the Western Opera. All actors, male or female roles, seem to sing in these high tones and because they do not move the lips that much, it is difficult for an outsider to tell who is singing on the stage right now and who is just posing.


There a lots of different gestures that need to be known to read the mood of the different roles. I just post two of them that seemed interesting to learn.


Mei Lanfang has influenced different female roles in the Beijing Opera as well as the colourful make-up. At his time on stage, female roles were performed by male actors.

This is him, practicing sword dance in his courtyard house in Beijing - that today is a museum (see previous post) and open to public.


The video shows him on stage performing a sword dance. I guess, it is him singing.

More info on the Mei Lanfang Website

5 Things To Do when in Beijing

1. Great Wall in Mutianyu
Visiting the Great Wall is a must and the most impressing sight in China. From Beijing downtown to Mutianyu it is about 1.5 hours to drive. It is not the closest part of the wall, but the best if you want to be away from the crowd. You can take the gondola / cable car (which Bill Clinton has taken). On top of the wall walk to the left, where you are almost for yourself.

If you walk to the right, there might be more people and it is a more steep way down. But at the end you can go on a fun sleigh ride back to the parking area. - Toilets near the parking are okay.

Remark: A great alternative to Mutianyu is the "Commune at the Great Wall" for its architectural expo of houses that are actually for rent from the Hotel. They have private access to the Great Wall. Follow a hidden path through a forest up hill and enjoy about 1 km of not restored wall. Ask at the reception for directions. For special occasion (pack a bottle of Champagne in your backpack). 
www.commune.com.cn


2. Forbidden City
You can spend here several days or just 1.5 hours to get an overview. Enter from the South Gate (north of Tiananmen) and walk to the North Gate. Make sure you enter at least 2 hours before they close. At the moment a major part is under renovation for the Summer Olympics in 2008. Workers and bamboo scaffold might appear in your pictures.


3. Further sightseeing can include 5 more spots:
--> Drum Tower and Houtongs around here and around Houhai Lake (Hutong tour by bike or rikshaw is a nice experience)
--> Summer Palace (partly under renovation)
--> Lama Temple (the Confucius Temple opposite is still closed for renovation)
--> Temple of Heaven with its park (across the Pearlmarket...)
and on a weekend
--> Panjiayuan Antique market (I know, this could belong to number 4 'shopping' but it is sightseeing as well!), see also my other post


4. Shopping
I love Beijing for its shopping adventures. Shopping here is just so different from the western world. Of course nowadays, new malls with international labels open up every month. But still, it can be an adventure browsing the markets. It is amazing what you get for little money. Of course the very cheap shirts, pearls, bags, watches etc. lack quality. So you have to take a very close look on what you buy. I really mean close: turn the sweater inside out and check the sewing, check for spots, holes. Try the zip twice of jackets and bags. Turn the JL Coultre watch around for surprises. - Pull it, knock it, cut or bite it (pearls) - You can find original brand stuff, but remember that it might be in the market because it is faulty. The Chinese do quality control. But the good quality is exported abroad. The bad quality is sold off in the markets in China. Or the clothes are from old collections from years ago. Or it is from over-production. And even sometimes things can be 'fallen from the truck'. Anyway, the patient hunter can find real good things. Check my shopping & bargain guide.


By now you might be hungry and we come to point 5.

5. Eating experience
As in every capital in the world, Beijing offers a wide range of international restaurants. But to impress visitors, I would take them to:
- Whampoa Club ($$$$), Nouvelle Beijing Cuisine in courtyard house, modern Chinese decor, cosy bar, private dining possible
- Green t. house ($$$), fantastic decor and creative menu
- The Courtyard ($$$$), window seats with view on the Forbidden City (no yard)
- Made in China ($$$), unique restaurant in the Hyat Hotel for Beijing Duck, book a table by the open kitchen
- Duck King ($), for Beijing Duck
- Bellagio ($), spicy Taiwanese food and great mango deserts, fast service, late dining, no reservation, a bit hectic
- Source ($$), set menu in a renovated Courtyard house, nice sitting in the yard
- Red Capital Club ($$$), renovated Courtyard house, waitresses in Mao-style uniforms
- Lan Restaurant ($$$), Philippe Starck's latest creativity outburst
- Hatsune ($$), best fusion Japanese (American Style) restaurant in town

I can recommend these as I like them myself. I will post address and telephone numbers later.

Was this post helpful? Do you want to know more about Beijing? Come visit this blog again. (updated September 2007)

Photo by musicmuse

Beijing: a day unfolds

I was looking forward to today's trip to an art village. However because of the heavy rain yesterday and a wrong weather forecast for today, this trip was cancelled. So I had extra free time and started to enjoyed it on the sofa reading a book about Chinese Houses. (yeah, my life in Beijing is not too bad) I read a chapter about Beijing Courtyards ... and came across pictures of the former residence of the famous Peking Opera actor Mei Langfang. This courtyard is a museum since 1986. So, this became my next destination! With my camera and a bottle of water I went on a ride. I strolled through hutongs (small alleys) and found this beautiful courtyard house.


And more. Not too far away, I checked out the new stylish Kapok Hotel that is located between Wanfujing Shopping area and the Forbidden City. Both in about 5 minutes walking distance from the hotel. And they offer bicycle rent for 60 RMB / 24h. Great idea, as this is the right area to discover the charming part of Beijing - the way you expect Beijing to be.


And more. Walking down to the gate of the Forbidden City, I came by 'The Courtyard' restaurant. They have moved the 'Courtyard Gallery' from the basement to out of town Shunyi area. Now, you can have a very intimate dinner in the basement, still with views over the moat of the Forbidden City, and even with a bed next to the table... what kind of dinner will that be? Well, they won the 2007 Restaurant award in the category 'Best for a date'.


And then, my 'photographer eye' caught fishermen. And I observed them for a while. I tried lots of different shots and different settings with my camera. And I enjoyed this peaceful moment in Beijing. It is really picturesque in this area. This is my favorite picture of today: A fishermen fishing in the moat of the Forbidden City, the red wall on the left is part of the Forbidden City.


So that was my other day. Not bad for a short notice cancelled day. Maybe even better. I will know next Monday, as this is the day the art village trip is postponed to.

All pictures coppy right by me.

Charming Courtyards in Beijing

A courtyard house is the most charming way to live in Beijing. But not the most convenient one. There are only few courtyards available that have bathrooms and electricity. They are difficult to access because hutongs are long small one way alleys. And, it is a fairly new and not a very transparent market. You have to ask around. Renovated hutongs are gone fast. To find one and convince a landlord to renovate it (with your money) or to buy one is even more difficult. A courtyard purchase is several times more complex than buying a house anywhere else as you find yourself confronted with six or more owners and their support team of 20 or more extended relatives (see Tom's Hutongs for rent here). And then at the end, you never know how long your new investment is save from the Beijing's bull-dozers (see post from Daily Telegraph's China Correspondant Richard Spencer). Because Beijing's preservation plan seems not always to protect where it was supposed to.

*

For the moment, I suggest, the easiest was to enjoy the charming courtyards is to have dinner at one of the many restaurants located in courtyard houses.

HERE IS A LIST OF COZY COURTYARD RESTAURANTS FOR ROMANTIC RENDEZ-VOUS:

The Source
Superbly restored old Hutong House with delicious, spicy set menu (120 or 190 RMB).
14 Banchang Alley, Kuan Jie, Dongcheng, phone 6400 3736

Red Capital Club
Red Capital Restaurant opened in 1999, followed by Mr. Brahm's boutique hotel. Both are crammed with Mao-mentos - Cultural Revolution paintings and figurines, antique phones, radios and actual chairs from Zongnanhai. The courtyard restaurant can't be missed in the alley as Mrs. Mao's car is parked outside.
66, Dongsi Jiu Tiao, Dongsi Dajie.

Mei Fu or Mei's Mansion
Peking opera master Mei Langang's favorite dishes are served in this three-level courtyard house. Dinner is an experience in this low-lit, chic and contemporary, restored 200-year-old Hutong with its fountains and pebbles and simply furnished dining salons. Set menu, around 300 RMB per person. Little English is spoken.
24 Daxianfeng Hutong, Houhai, Xicheng, phone 6612 6845

Yi He Ya Ju
Very popular, very casual restaurant with two 'beer garden' like gardens. Ideal for lunch combined with a walk in Ritan park or shopping in this area. It serves a mix of Sichuan, Shandong, Cantonese, Beijing and Shanghai cuisine.
Northeast corner of Ritan Park, Cahoyang, 8561 7643
(some expats call it the 'hole in the wall restaurant', because of its entrance)

Dali Courtyard
Hidden off an Alley. Warm and rustic, with coal furnaces, and old jazz tunes.
67 Xiaojingchang Hutong, Gulou Dong Dajie, Dongcheng, phone 8404 1430

Huajia Yiyuan
Courtyard with painted girder and roofs. Beijing style food.
235 Dongzhimennei Dajie, phone 6405 1908

The Gourmet Room
A small courtyard with delicate cantonese food and good wine.
Mo - Thur 6 pm - 9.30 pm, Fri - Sun 11 am - 2 pm, 6 pm - 9.30 pm.
3 Qianhai Xijie, Shichahai, Xicheng District 3, phone 6613 9641

Yan Yi Shan Zhai Ge Ge Fu
Staff dressed in ancient Chinese costumes. The cuisine is the so-called 'official cuisine' and there are nutritional soups. (??)
11 am - 2 pm, 4.30 pm - 10.30 pm.
9 Daqudeng Hutong, Meishuguan Houjie, Dongcheng, phone 6407 8006

Tan Hua Xuan
Tanjia Cuisine featuring the best of all Chinese cuisines.
112 Gulou Xidajie, Xicheng, phone 6403 3171

Baijia Dazhaimen
Official cuisine served in a Qing Dynasty king's former residence.
15 Suzhou Jie, Haidan, phone 6265 4186

Family Yue's Banquet House
Nutrious soups in the backyard of a king's former residence (same king as above?...).
29 Suzhou Jie, Haidan, phone 8262 5960

Village of the beautiful stove
Local Jiangxi food prepared in porcelain pots and nutritious soups
11 Suzhou Jie, Haidan, phone 6253 8883

Gui Gong Fu's
two yards are the best part of the restaurants as the rooms are a bit dark. The courtyard is said to belong to Qing Dynasty (1644-1911) empress Cixi's brother. The restaurant is famous for its dishes made of tea ingredients, as well as for Cantonese and Sichuan cuisines. 10.30 am - 2 pm, 5 pm - 10.30 pm.
11 Dafangjia Hutong, Chaoyangmennei Nanxiao Jie, Dongcheng, phone 6512 7677

Bodhi-Sake
Plenty of space for outdoor and indoor dining. It's a three level courtyard house adapted from a nunnery where a Ming Dynasty (1368-1644) princess spent her life as a nun. Vegetarian food.
10 am - 10 pm. 200 meters north of North gate of Taoranting Park,
10-16 Heiyaochang Jie, Xuanwu District, phone 63557348

Courtyard No 28
Small restaurant with a big tree and three rooms decorated in ancient Chinese Style. Spicy Guilin and Sichuan food. 11 am - 11 pm.
1 Xilou Hutong, South of Lama Temple, Dongcheng, phone 8401 6788

Crabapple House
Inside simple and a bit dark, outside under wisteria vine two wooden benches. Menu in Chinese and quiet expensive. Maybe better for tea time in the garden.
32 Xuanwumen Xidajie, Xuanwu District, phone 8315 4678

*

Remark: There is this chic restaurant called The Courtyard, that is overlooking the moat and the Eastern wall of the Forbidden City. Despite its name it is not a typical courtyard house and offers elegant indoor dining. The contemporary art gallery has moved from the basement out of town to Shunyi. Instead you could dine very intimate with a cozy bed next to the table... Reservation some days in advance:
95 Donghuamen Dajie, Dongcheng, phone 6526 8883

*

Oh, well, I have to say, I did not know that there are sooo many courtyard restaurants. I have tried only three or four so far. And I will use this list to check them out one by one, as it is courtyard season right now!

*

One more thought after reading Richard Spencer's post and the comments... I have never before thought about what has happend to the former residents of a courtyard restaurant or bar. Were they forced out? Were they compensated accordingly? Not only modern developpment projects are a threat to hutong residents even restaurants and bars might be.

*

Sources:
- China Daily's Beijing Weekend Guide (May 18-20), list of romantic courtyard restaurants,
- Luxe City Guide Beijing for the review and addresses of the Source, Mei Fu, Dali Courtyard, The Courtyard,
- That's Beijing's tbjhome (May 2007) for the courtyard renovation and purchase articles 'Hutong Heaven' and 'This Courting Life' by Tom Luckock. For further info about renting, buying and renovating courtyards contact the writer at tomshutongs@hotmail.com or visit his website about his two renovated courtyard houses. One is for rent, and one is a Bed & Breakfast that will open during 2007.
- photo via Red Capital Club

My older post:Beijing Courtyard House sells for Record Price (April 2007)

Funny Sexy Beijing episode under attack

I have to post another episode of Sexy Beijing right now. These amateur clips are funny. But some Chinese student thought it is offending. Most people do not get it why this harmless episode about Chinese choosing funny English names for themselves is considered as 'imperial journalism'. The journalist Su Fei (alias Sophie) makes fun of herself, too. This is called humour. Nobody is loosing face in my opinion. Just watch it...

... and follow some links below for the strange discussion that is less funny than the clip:
- Danwei's reaction
- Some bad comments posted on youtube just after the discussion started.
- An American Chinese philosophy friend, Useless Tree, is defending Su Fei in an interesting post.

After the statistics Sexy Beijing's episodes seems to be even more popular among Chinese viewers than among western viewers. Danwei.tv's most popular program is Looking for Double Happiness which has got 272,092 views on Youtube, and 565,014 views on Chinese video sharing website 56.com.

Beijing and What's new in Sanlitun

There is more than beer bars in Sanlitun.
Around noon you can see the strange situation of having ex pats in business suits and sun glasses sitting on stylish verandas of European restaurants next to the migrant workers squatting on their yellow helmets on the sidewalk - both enjoying their lunch break and the warm sunshine.

The Italian restaurant 'Assagi' has underwent major renovation work and has been closed for several months. It is going to open soon. New about the Assagi building is that downstairs it hosts now a 'Panino Teca' selling Italian sandwich and pastry. It is already fully operational and packed during lunchtime.

South of Dongzhimenwai the French Eatery 'Le Petit Paris' also got a face lift and extended their well frequented terrace. Next door is 'Gustomenta', the Italian ice parlour. Since last year it is neighbouring the construction field of a new shopping complex. The roof construction is almost finished. A few months ago there were hutong alleys with small courtyard houses and low rise red brick apartment buildings. And still more has to vanish for a luxury hotel complex (in the media it was called the 'Versace Hotel' but I have no confirmation that the interior will be designed by Versace). The new rental fee will then no longer be affordable for these charming colourful bistros and shops along the street. They will disappear - probably in favour of Mac Donald and Starbucks.

Back to Sanlitun North of Dongzhimenawai there is another construction going on since several months. The river was kept dry and an endless blue fence had been erected along the river banks. Me curious, I cycled around the construction to find little holes in the fence to see more.

There were some signs of 'no stopping' that made me feel like a spy when I took pictures of the new waterfront and the river bank reinforcement. - It looks like their will be a catwalk under the bridge of the third ring road so you can easily walk or cycle between North Sanlitun and Lufthansa Complex. It will be very nice to stroll along the river when everything is finished. I hope they will let the water back in before the Olympic Games in summer 2008.

(More pictures at my Beijing China Set on Flickr.com)

Sexy Beijing's latest episode

Today, I present my favorite Danwei TV show: Sexy Beijing . The episodes are presented by sexy Su Fei who muses about love, customs, culture and street life in China's capital. On her way to find the truth she interviews young and old Beijinger in perfect Mandarin (English subtitles).

The newest episode is already the 9th clip of that great program. This time it is about 'March 8', or 'san ba'(3/8), the International Women's Day. This day is a holiday that is traditionally celebrated with much official support in China. Su Fei wants to find out whether 'san ba' is also a rather insulting way to refer to a woman and why the country that wants women to hold up half the sky uses this date to put them down.



Cosmopolitan magazine plays a role in this episode; for more on women in Chinese magazines, see this Danwei post: Images of women in Chinese magazines.

All Danwei TV programs are also archived at Danwei.tv. Here you find the comments to the program as well as on youtube.

My other favorite Sexy Beijing episodes:
Lost in Translation
Looking for Double Happiness
Weddings Gone Wild

Beijing: Kenny G in concert 'mamahuhu' ?

As the Shanghaist I would not have listen to a Kenny G CD. And I never thought that a Kenny G concert would be entertaining. But it was last Saturday in the Beijing Exhibition Center Theater.

Kenny G, besides being the world most famous saxophonist and the best golfer among music makers (by Golf Digest) he is a smart entrepreneur. He knows that he alone could not entertain a crowd in a concert hall. So he brings along on stage some great musicians.

Among them most impressing and very charming Ron Powell (percussion) who entertained the crowd with a sensational solo performance. Powell is a star of his own, he played with Barry White, Sheena Easton, Madonna, Frank Sinatra, Diana Ross, to name some of them, and now he tours with Kenny G.

The second highlight of the evening was Supergirl Li Yuchun, the winner of the national singing contest 2005. She has a fantastic voice that was unfortunately not so much to enjoy in the first minutes because of technical problems with the microphone. She sang the Chinese hit ‘The moon that represents my heart’ in Chinese and ‘Tell me’ in English.

Entertaining were also the ‘subtitels’ to introduce the songs. My favourite was ‘You are beautiful’ and the explanation ‘you have qualities that delight the eyes’.

I will definitely look for a CD from Li Yuchun and Ron Powell.
And I will listen to Kenny G in elevators and when it is 9pm at Yashow I will listen to ‘Home’ played over the loudspeakers so the vendors know it is time to pack and go home. Maybe that is why Chinese people love Kenny G’s music so much.

(Photo Kenny G with Li Yuchun from TheBeijingNews.com)

Beijing: Fashion Week' s City Warriors

In contrast with earlier fashion weeks, when women's collections inevitably took the limelight, this time, men's collections are the highlight and account for nearly half the shows.

The audience seemed especially enthused as Ji Wenbo introduced his Li Lang clothing line on Monday. Taking inspiration from the famed buried terracotta army of the Qin Dynasty (221-206 BC) that draws tourists from around the world to the city of Xi'an,
Ji's offerings represent a kind of metropolitan warrior; his leather jackets, hued in gray and black with flashes of red, turquoise and peacock blue, hint of ancient armor. (Source: China Daily LIFE)

Worth a visit: the famous terracotta worriors in Xian.
(Photos by ChinaDaily.com and TravelChinaGuide.com)

Craig's First Bond First Shown In China

For the first time famous British spy ‘Ling Ling Qi’ (‘007') is coming officially to China Mainland. After 44 years, ‘Casino Royale’, achieved something no other Bond movie ever had – it was approved by the Chinese censors. This has nothing to do with Daniel Craig alias Bond, James Bond or the content. It is China preparing to be more modern and open minded. Remember, China is meeting the world in 2008...

But back to Daniel Craig being Bond. I have to confess that I was one of those sillies who signed the funny ‘Daniel Craig is not Bond’ petition. 1) Because I am a big fan of handsome Pierce Brosnan and Craig, 38 does not look better or younger than Brosnan, 53. 2) Because Craig apparently dumped lovely German actress Heike Makatsch for an affair with crazy model Kate Moss.

But of course I am not that silly to boycott a Bond movie for this. I saw it on DVD and have to say this is a new type of Bond. Craig is no gentleman. He does lots of things different: the car (Nissan?), the martini order, the Craig made ‘Ursula Andress-scene’, the verbal Omega Product Placement, Craig's almost resigning etc. And the scenes are more brutal. Take the opening scene where Craig drowns his enemy in a sink of a public toilet. No comparison to the great opening scene of ‘Goldeneye’ and its great soundtrack.

No matter the critics, when you are a fan of Bond movies you go and watch ‘Casino Royale’ anyway. The movie will be shown in Beijing cinemas from January 30. If you cannot wait that long, get a pirate copy DVD e.g. at Jenny Lou’s supermarket for 10 RMB (about 1,20 USD).

Beijing Restaurant: LAN

Zhang Lan, chairwoman of the South Beauty chain of restaurants, has recently opened her 21st restaurant. These upscale Chinese restaurants serve Sichuan favourites in stylish environment. But LAN's interior is different from all others.

LAN is an incredible restaurant-bar-nightclub wonderland. It is huge in all dimensions:

- 6,000 sqm space
- Capacity of up to 1,000 diners at one time
- Several millions of dollars costs
- Designed by world-famous designer Philippe Starck.

Where other designers think about trend, Philippe Starck says, he thinks about ‘vision, love, surrealism, poetry, surprise’. Not to compare with Starck’s famous Felix bar in Hong Kong’s Peninsula Hotel, Starck’s LAN is a high stylised mish mash of chaise longues, rhino heads, ornate mirrors, leather seats, chandeliers of plastic junk, classical paintings suspended, face down, from the ceiling. The private rooms in style of Mongolian tents and the ‘powder rooms’ are a must see.

LAN, Starck’s first project on the Mainland, definitely adds a new spirit to Beijing.

And soon to New Year too! Site renovation for a new restaurant in New York City's Times Square begins later this year. The $3 million to $4 million Philippe Starck-designed New York locale is to include a Chinese modern art gallery.

By 2008 Zhang Lan wants 100 restaurants, at least half of them overseas. Other spots should include Japan, France, Italy and India.

LAN's price category: $$$

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