A Rap Song for Beijing

Jason Chu, a hip-hop artist from the US, had been living in Beijing for the last two years. He had been working, learning, and taking in the language and culture. Now, Jason is returning home and his latest rap song is a farewell letter to Beijing.

I am glad he sent me an email to share his video, saying the following:

"... As many expats know, leaving this country brings with it a mixture of emotions - everything from relief to a bittersweet sense of loss. As I reflect on this departure, I’ve been writing songs that talk about life here: both “the expat experience” and the local lives that I’ve come into contact with

This past weekend, I filmed and uploaded a music video for a song called City of the North, a letter to this city in all its difficulty, challenge, and unexpected beauty. It showcases the faces and lives that intersect in this explosion of culture: the students, migrant workers, expats, laobaixing, and more.

The song is the first track off the EP Goodbye, Beijing. that will be releasing on 4/21 at grandmaster.bandcamp.com. There will also be a release party/music video screening/farewell concert in Beijing's 798 art district. If you happen to be in town, or you have any friends or acquaintances who will be, you're definitely all invited to the event. (For more info, please contact jasonchumusic@gmail.com)

My music and thoughts on ABC (editor: American born Chinese) identity in China have been covered in the China Daily and on MSNBC."

I am featuring his music video, because I like it. It is something new to catch a glimpse of Beijing in a rap song! And Jason Chu is a special hip hop artist - follow the links to China Daily and on MSNBC and you will learn why. Also, I enjoyed recognising areas around Sanlitun (and very blue skies!) in his video, listening to the lyrics (the Lost Laowai printed them), and hearing a classic Chinese bow instrument embedded in a rap song. 

Thank you Jason, for sharing! Looking forward to the other songs! Good luck and safe journey home!

PS: Actually, the article over at MSNBC - "Not Chinese enough in China? Chinese-Americans caught between 2 worlds" - is a very interesting subject and worth a separate post.

  

Free Ai Weiwei !

Artist Ai Weiwei in the ruins of his demolished studio in Shanghai in January 2011 (via Getty Images)

Ai Weiwei (or Ai Wei Wei), probably the most internationally known Chinese artist who often criticises the Chinese Communist Party for many good reasons, is still detained in Beijing by police since April 3rd.

 Ai Weiwei's international popularity allowed him - so far - to express outspoken social critics without being arrested. However, according to himself, he was dangerously beaten up by Chinese police while protesting in Sichuan after the 2008 earthquake where hundreds of schoolchildren died due to poorly built school houses.

There are many other Chinese artists that make money by selling art to the international market that's subject is criticising former chairman Mao. But there are not many artist that dare to openly criticize the actual government.

Although, Mr. Ai continuously built up international relationships with galleries and museums in the US, UK, Germany, Netherlands, Austria etc. and additionally used the new media twitter (#Aiww) to create a kind of public protection around him, he lately was under house arrest in Beijing and now is detained.

I am really sad and shocked to hear what happened to Ai Weiwei.
I liked to live in China, I liked Beijing.
I like the Chinese cultural heritage.
China's economical power is growing and Chinese citizens are proud of their nation.

Why on earth does the Chinese government need to detain this artist?

Most of the Chinese citizens will not care about Ai Weiwei, I am afraid. They will believe the government that this silly old man has committed a tax fraud or so.

When I say "FREE AI WEIWEI", I am not (only) saying that to the Chinese officials, I am saying this to the Chinese people. Please, stand up, stand behind him. His critics are human. He is not asking much. He is a bright and intelligent man. His art is not commercial as the one of many others. He is doing this for a better China. - When this man is arrested, they can arrest anybody.

When the German chancellor Merkel is asking to "Free Ai Weiwei", most of the Chinese people will not understand her and dislike this involvement - as they did, when she said something in favor of the Dailai Lama. Chinese citizens are proud of their nation, once again, they do not like to be criticised by the West.

It is like someone is talking bad about your parents. You need to grow up to understand that your parents are not always right. It feels like most Chinese have not grown up yet. And this is why I feel sad for Ai Weiwei: While he is putting his live at danger to improve human rights in China, most of the Chinese don't care.

This dilemma drove him abroad where he made sure his concept work and installations become well-known in the art world. But as a Chinese born he also feels connected to China and therefor lives in Beijing with studios in Beijing and Shanghai - the latter was demolished by the government in January 2011. However, he was said to open a gallery in Berlin soon and even move there. He must have felt very unsafe.

It is in the Chinese mentality that critics are not appreciated by superiors. - Will this ever change?


Here more information about Ai Weiwei and his detention at New York Times:
http://www.nytimes.com/2011/04/04/world/asia/04china.html?_r=1&scp=8&sq=ai%20weiwei&st=cse
http://topics.nytimes.com/top/reference/timestopics/people/a/ai_weiwei/index.html

And check blogger Peking Duck's post with over 200 comments of both sides:
http://www.pekingduck.org/2011/04/the-global-times-and-ai-weiwei/

You may also like this post with my links to Ai Weiwei:
http://beijingnotebook.blogspot.com/2009/10/60-years-people-republic-of-china.html

*** Comments and critics are welcome! ***

UPDATE May 3rd:
Still nobody knows where AWW is detained.
A friend gave me this link to read:  http://www.economist.com/node/18560351, an article about China's recent crackdowns by The Economist from April 14th, 2011

UPDATE May 16th:
His wife met him yesterday (May 15th) for 15 minutes after 6 weeks of no notice. They give him his medicine, they do not torture him. At least a sign of life. His wife said, he seemed very quiet/serious and only said he does not understand for what he is accused. More discussion on this subject was not allowed during that meeting.
I hope they will let him go soon.

Jasmine Revolution in Beijing ?! - no way !

When my mother, living in Europe, called me yesterday and told me that there are demonstrations in Beijing and other cities going on, starting the so called "Jasmine Revolution", I had to question her Western media sources. Of course I read about some calls for protest rallies on Sundays, but also that nobody came - or those who came were arrested (which I do oppose of course).

Not sure what the Western Media is hoping for. Democracy in China or a higher circulation ?

Chinese are definitely not going to rally because they neither want nor need a revolution. Chinese are proud of their nation that is moving forward. Their quality of live is getting better every year. Money rules the Chinese World ! And the government is aware of what needs to bee done to secure "harmony" (in a positive way, I hope). That is the difference to the other middle East countries.

When I checked my favorite blogs, I found these very good posts that worth reading for a quick insight:

http://www.pekingduck.org/2011/02/jasmine-revolution-tiananmen-20-no/

and this:

http://chinadigitaltimes.net/2011/02/could-mideast-revolutions-spread-to-china/

or this:

http://www.danwei.org/government/failed_jasmine_protests_in_chi.php

In my blog I hardly say anything about politics. But what makes me angry is to see the so called free and intellectual Western Media writing constantly negative about anything Chinese.

But on the other hand (to be fair, I have to mention that not everything is China is great), what bothered me most while living in China was the Internet censorship. Facebook, twitter, blogs, all blocked and certain web content blocked or deleted. After Egypt used the Internet so successfully to organise its revolution, the Great Fire Wall of China will become even more strict. But does it really bother Chinese enough to dare to protest on the streets? And if yes, it would not lead to a downfall of the government, maybe not even to an improvement of the censorship or human rights. These changes only come slowly, when the government feels sure about a harmonious society.

When you ask for TWO and get EIGHT

Once, when my mother was visiting me in Beijing together with my mother-in-law, we went shopping. We always went shopping of course, but once we went shopping for tea. It was their last day of their stay in Beijing and the demand for different kind of green teas and jasmine teas in pretty little gift boxes was high. I was the tour guide and had to translate - but could not handle both mothers at the same time. So my mother, not shy, went ahead and ordered two more red boxes of a nice Dragon Well green tea. And to make sure the Chinese sales girl understood her right, she made the gesture with her two fingers - the Western way :

The Chinese sales girl got very excited and asked her collegue for help and they packed tea in boxes, and boxes and boxes ... meanwhile I turned around and saw my confused mother trying to stop the girls and behind the counter I saw happy busy working sales girls.

I understood right away, what had happened, when I heard my mother saying : No, TWO, TWO !

The Western gesture for TWO is the Chinese gesture for EIGHT !

You must know the following :
Chinese use one hand, five fingers only, to count to 10. And especially when shopping in the grocery markets they use their fingers.

And counting to ten the Chinese way goes like this:

Chinese figure gestures

Chinese characters for 1 to 10 and pinyin writing

Below alternative gestures for 10 :

So, my Mum had ordered EIGHT boxes of tea, thinking she had asked for only TWO. Well, she did ask for two, in her English - but with the Western gesture for two which is the Chinese gesture for eight.

This Saturday in Beijing : Urban Carpets by Instant Hutong

click on flyer (including map) to enlarge

Stefano Avesani from instant hutong send me an email to post about their event on this Saturday in Beijing. Thanks, I love to announce it here on my blog.  -   If I would still be in Beijing I would definately go. I love the atmosphere of the neighbourhood in hutongs, the small aleys in old Beijing ! And the photos of the previous exhibitions of Urban Carpets look so interesting.

Here the details :

URBAN CARPET 8x5 · 都市地毯8x5

四 4th one day-only exhibition

2009年10月25日, 11am – 6pm

NEIGHBOURHOOD COURTYARD - 社区庭院
no.17 Cao Chang Tou Tiao, Xian Yu Kou Di Qu, Chong Wen District

北京市崇文区鲜鱼口地区草厂头条17号

完美地体现了源于近几年北京郊区在不知所措地迅速变化中的矛盾。房地产政策的目的是鲜鱼口社区原住民的再次回归。对城市的传统性的描述都不适合鲜鱼口,当前是特别有趣的城乡结合。城镇的空间和自然的空间,农村的习惯和现代设备的结合，细微地体现于北京的都市中心。

Xian Yu Kou district perfectly embodies the contradictions stemming from the rapid transformations which overwhelmed Beijing neighbourhoods in the past few years. The target of real estate policies has been partially abandoned and the spaces have recently been re-occupied by the former inhabitants. None of the traditional city descriptions can suit Xian Yu Kou, which is, nowadays, a surprising and totally fascinating combination of city and countryside, urban spaces and natural ones, rural habits blended in with contemporary facilities. This micro phenomenon is taking place at the very centre of the large metropolis of Beijing.

Works by·艺术家 :

MARCELLA CAMPA & STEFANO AVESANI - http://www.instanthutong.com/

photo via instanthutong

*

I would love to hear from anyone who went their, please leave a comment.

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Learning the meaning of Chinese Characters

I (wǒ), the hand that is holding a weapon

When learning Chinese characters you will be tought that Chinese characters are divided in six categories (六書 liùshū or "Six Writings").

To one of the six categories belong the characters that are created by two or more pictographics to a  "joined meaning" (會意 huì yì ).


example:

木 ［木］ mù  = 1 tree
林 ［林］ lín =  2 x trees = forest


Here some more "joined meanings" or so called "ideogrammic compounds" :

 亻 man leaning at a  木 tree =  resting  休 xiū

日 sun and 月 moon  =  bright 明 míng

 女 woman with a  子 child   =  good   好 hǎo

 力 strength working on a  田 ricefield  =   male  男 nán

豕 pig under a 宀 roof  =  family, home  家 jiā

 手 hand  holding a  戈 weapon   = I   我 wǒ


Isn't this interesting how the Chinese sign for "I" (我 wǒ) was composed (above picture) ?

I am "The hand that is holding a weapon" !

This results from really rough times. If you cannot defend yourself, you cannot exist !

Actually, my latest Chinese teacher told me that the sign 我 (wǒ, engl.:  I ) is a combination of the sign for "corn" (or grain) and the sign for "weapon" (here: lance).  The corn is to feed yourself and the weapon is to defend yourself.

I could not verify if corn (禾 hé) is meant here for the first sign or if it is rather the hand  手. If there is a Chinese expert among my readers, please feel free to comment about that post!


Check out this link - it will show a new Chinese characters any minute :


 
I added the link to my blogroll, so anytime you visit you can learn some Chinese.
.

60 Years People Republic of China

Happy 60th birthday to PR China and its people !

Yesterday, the world could see the big party and parades on Tiananmen Square.

The Chinese government is good in well organizing big public parties and knows how to ensure good weather!

A hillarious parade of good looking tall Chinese female soldiers (above is a training photo by Reuters)

The media including internet provides tons of information and comments about this birthday and China in general.

I decided to provide the following links on this occasion  :

Ai Weiwei,  contemporary Chinese artist, blogs another kind of birthday speech for his motherland about 60 years of shame and ignorance.

At the moment Ai Weiwei stays in Munich (Germany) where he got operated because of an injury that he claims happened during beiing beaten up by Chinese police. But the main reason is the upcoming opening of his exposition "So sorry" on October 12, 2009 at the Haus der Kunst in Munich.

Don't miss Ai Weiwei's article on Times Magazine reflecting on the subject. 

(Images : Reuters)

About the Year of the Ox and its Babies

Happy New Year of the Ox !

2009, the Year of the Earth OX started January 26, 2009 and ends on February 13, 2010.


What to expect from the YEAR 2009:

This OX year will bring stability and growth where patience and diligence pays off.

This is a year of Harvest (EARTH ox) - when we reap what we have sown. Take care of business this year, do not let things slide.

The SIGN of the Ox in general:

The Ox is thought to be the sign of prosperity through fortitude and hard work. The Ox is a power sign, like the Rat, Snake, Dragon, Tiger, and Monkey. It is the 2nd sign in the Chinese Zodiac of 12 animals.

Attributes of PEOPLE born in the year of the OX:

People born in the sign of the OX are said to be stable, strong, dutiful, reliable, tenacious, practical, industrious, determined, honest, loyal, sincere, persevering and down to earth and tolerant. They can sometimes be lonely but they form firm bonds with home and family. The OX people cherish their private lives and are not usually very adventurous. They know the way to succeed is by a slow, steady, sustained effort. OX people are great traditionalists, they like the familiar.

However there are a few negative traits associated with the character of the ox that also is reflected through the people born in the OX years. Attributes like being materialistic, narrow minded, stubborn, with low public relations skills and also very far from being emotional are generally associated with people born in this year.

What to expect from BABIES to be born this year:

This child will NOT be a cry baby. It is unusually tough and can endure hardship. A rugged individualist, it tends to begin speaking late and would rather settle arguments with its fists. Stubborn and unyielding, it can turn the house upside down when he puts his mind to it. She or he is not the fussy type but will be adamant about the few concessions she/he demands. One of them will be privacy.

She/he won't resent discipline and in fact will welcome your fixing a schedule for her/him. The ox baby may insist on having its meals served at the same time each day but it will not be particular about food. It thrives on regularity; knowing where everything is and what is expected of him will give him a sense of security. A girl born under this sign will go for order and neatness at home.

The Ox youngster enjoys taking charge when mother or teacher is away and is stern and unsympathetic to offenders. She/he can and usually will give you an unbiased opinion, as he/she is not easily influenced or taken in by flattery. Instead of bribing or begging her/him to do something unpleasant, it will be more effective to simply tell them, "It is an order!" It is not argumentative by nature but you must gain its respect before it will obey you.

The ox child relishes teaching younger children and will show remarkable patience and perseverance in waiting for what it wants. Being the strong, silent type, it may not readily reveal his feelings. It can be deeply hurt and no one may even suspect it, because the Ox child is a very private person. Although it may put up a blunt, strong-willed and loyal front, the Ox is terribly naive about the realities of life. It needs to be protected in this respect and it will rely heavily on moral support from its parents, teachers and family.

At school, the ox child may be an exemplary student as he is not one to lock horns with the authorities. His serious and no-nonsense outlook on life makes him avoid joking or clowning around. He should be encouraged to express his emotions and develop his sense of humor.

Above all, he will be reliable and responsible. He will win the respect of his elders as well as his peers. The Ox child will be an outstanding example of both an excellent leader and follower and perform his duties well.

Source: http://www.theholidayspot.com/chinese_new_year/more_zodiacs/ox.htm


FAMOUS People Born in The Year of the Ox:

Johann Sebastian Bach, Shirley Bassey, Kate Beckinsale, Napoleon Bonaparte, Charlie Chaplin, George Clooney, Bill Cosby, Oscar De La Hoya, Walt Disney, Moctesuma Esparza, Jane Fonda, Clark Gable, Jorge Garcia, Nomar Garciaparra, Richard Gere, Whoopi Goldberg, George Frideric Handel, Adolf Hitler, Dustin Hoffman, Anthony Hopkins, Rock Hudson, Saddam Hussein, Keira Knightley, Kate Moss, Eddie Murphy, Paul Newman, Jack Nicholson, Richard Nixon, Barack Obama, Pablo Picasso, Princess Diana, Robert Redford, Meg Ryan, Peter Sellers, Bruce Springsteen, Meryl Streep, Margaret Thatcher, Vincent Van Gogh and Sigourney Weaver are some of the well known people who were born in the Year of the Ox.

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It was fun to collect these sort of info / horoscopes from the web. My sources and more to be found here:
http://www.123chinesenewyear.com/new-year-of-ox/
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chinese_zodiac
http://www.chinesefortunecalendar.com/2009.htm
http://www.theholidayspot.com/chinese_new_year/more_zodiacs/ox.htm

Beijing Images by Peter Kurz

Peter Kurz from Munich is a talented photographer and his photos are art to me - not only because they are beautiful, also because they transport what I like about Beijing. Last November he and our common friend visited me in Beijing and we did most of the sight seeing together. When we exchanged our photos - he sent me his on a CD packed in a sweet surprise Christmas parcel full of Lebkuchen and Marzipan - I was so excited to see how he saw Beijing through his lens. I got his permission to publish some of my favorite pictures. I picked 11 for this post (click on the picture to enlarge).

The first day of my friends’ arrival we grabbed our bicycles and cycled to the Houhai area. The picture above was taken from the Drum Tower around 5pm and shows the view to the South.

We cycled back home through Donzhimennei Dajie a.k.a. Ghost Street where this picture (above) was taken in front of one of the many many restaurants that open 24h and have plenty of red lanterns hanging outside. It is called Ghost Street because it never sleeps.

This photo (above) is taken in the Forbidden City, in the area of the concubine quarters. The ox blood red of Chinese ancient walls, its different washed-out tones always fascinates me.

Main gate of the Forbidden City with Mao painting at Tiananmen Square is a must see at night. The picture was taken out of our driving car.

This is the oldest shoe shop in Beijing, south of Tiananmen. I like the reflections in the window.

Here ends the 'red series' and below starts Peter's 'blue series'.

This night shot shows one of the largest screens in the world at The Plaza shopping mall, just north of the Silk market.

Buddhas and monks at the Panjiayuan weekend market a.k.a. the dirt market. I like the photo composition. It is vivid and serene at the same time. It contains contrasts like eternity and erosion, mind and material. Sized-up and mounted it would be great photo art.

Panda at Dashanzi 798 Art District, sprayed on the wall by artist 'AP'. Beside red walls, I like grey brick walls in China. It is part of Beijing’s scruffy charm. Seldom there is graffiti, only in areas where its wanted. And 798 is one of my favorite places for a fun walk on a Sunday afternoon.

I also like Beijing parks where old people gather to play games or exercise hobbies. I like this picture because it shows that Chinese people do smile! It shows two happy women, one plays a traditional Chinese two-string violin, the erhu, and the other one likes her interpretation of a famous piece (I guess).

The photo above shows a food stand at night near Wangfujing. I like everything in this snap-shot: the expression on the young woman's face, the simple Chinese screen door, the steamy kitchen and windows - can you see the water drops on the window? Nice shot!

Chinese 'Plattenbau', the communist architecture for residential buildings. Very simple, very grey, very dull. Despite the new architectural highlights in Beijing, this is still the dominating landscape.

Beijing is a city with many faces, although many old faces vanish, some will remain and make every visit memorable.

***

Photographer: Peter Kurz, Munich Germany, email: perz(at)arcor(dot)com

Bio:
Peter Kurz, born in 1968, works as a medical doctor in Munich. Beside sports and travelling (thereof many trips to Asia) his interest is photography since the age of 15. This passion began with a second hand Minolta XG1.

Peter Kurz, Jahrgang 1968, tätig als Internist in München, neben Sport und Reisen (darunter zahlreiche Asienaufenthalte) seit dem 15. Lebensjahr begeisterter Fotograf. Die Leidenschaft begann mit einer Minolta XG1 (gebraucht gekauft).

All above images source and copyright Peter Kurz, Munich.

Never again: Air China

Lately I had my first flight with Air China and I thought it worth a blog post. This in mind and encouraged by Maryam's post about her bad experience with Turkish Airlines I came across Kim's post about the best and the worst international airlines and her link to airline quality surveyor Skytrax. I checked some of the over 260.000 airline reviews by independent travelers. I saw that everybody who travels can tell good and bad stories about airlines, even about the same airline. There are some real strange stories that made me I feel lucky to not have experienced worse.

The thing is, the more I fly the less I am looking forward to all the hassle. Until you board you are often already exhausted and thirsty. With all the worries I have about arriving safe and sound, the first thing I do when coming on board, I look at the flight attendants. These are the ladies and gentlemen I am depending on in the next hours. Will we get along? If they are nice and attentive it gives me a better feeling. Also everything should be clean and tidy. If it looks already bad from the inside, how was the plane serviced from the outside?

So far I have always avoided flying Air China as it is well known that 90% of their pilots speak and understand only poor English. Communication problems between the tower and the pilots during take off and landing as well as between the pilots and the air controllers in the various air spaces that the plane has to fly through can be fatal.

But from Rome back to Beijing I had no other chance then to fly with Air China. The flight that was code shared with Alitalia. I upgraded my son and myself with miles to Business Class to have a relaxed night flight.

And here is what I did not enjoy:

- The big Chinese group that tried to cut the line at the check-in counter. It has nothing to do with Air China, except that it is a Chinese Airline with many Chinese passengers, so you get a quick introduction into Chinese habits.
- First shock: old uncomfortable business class seats like 20 years ago with foot rest only and the least legroom I can remember. If the passenger in front of you leans back with his seat he lands in your soup (I talk about Business Class)
- The toilet already smells from urine before passenger board
- one out of the two available toilets in the BC has a broken water supply, only boiling water comes out, washing hands is impossible!
- The only Chinese flight attendants do not smile and their English is very limited. One even seems to avoid servicing me and my child in order to avoid any language problem.
- Before take off the lights go out completely (no emergency light on the floor), we are for several minutes in the dark, no captain announcement
- No individual entertainment program, no magazines. The two overhead monitors show a Chinese folklore performance, later one movie
- Bad behaving Chinese passengers: using mobile phone through taxi although flight attendant had finally repeated the regulations. And later at night, shouting passengers, almost rioting and using the English "f" word, waking everybody up. It seems that a Chinese man felt disturbed by a Chinese woman behind him nestling in her seat bag and interrupting his sleep. No flight attendant in sight.
- Repeated smoking in the toilet. I can smell this through 5 rows - however indifferent pilot and flight attendant, 2000 yuan fine is ignored. I can smell that the flight attendant himself had smoked.
- More dirty toilets and toilet seats as the Chinese stand on the toilet seats....
- Before landing wrong English announcement (suggestion not to wear coats because it is warm outside... the opposite is the case, it is winter). Okay minor, but in emergency case I hope for the right announcements in English.
- After landing in Beijing, Air China's home base, we are on a far away outside position and need to wait for stairs and bus which does not bother me anymore.

BTW, the food seemed okay. I only had lost appetite after a couple of visits to the toilet (I am travelling with a child).

Am I spoiled? No. If you book business class it is because you want to rest and sleep and arrive relaxed. Other Asian airlines (e.g. Cathay, Singaporean, Emirates) are providing a better Economy Class then this Air China Business Class.

Why is Air China not using their new airplanes on all international flights? I heard that they have the newest seats on flights between Shanghai and Beijing. Air China, although an international airline, seems not yet prepared to serve international passengers.

No more Sleepless in Beijing

One of the last fireworks tonight.


It is midnight and almost quiet ! Only some single far away detonations here and there... Tonight was the last day and this year there is a regulations: after midnight no more shooting. Oh, I am not reporting from a war zone, I am reporting from Beijing, China. Tonight we had non-stop firing since sunset. Not to forget that this all started over two weeks ago. Since February 6 every day and every night fireworks, firecrackers and these bomb like detonations... this is China. The highlight of a around 20 minutes firework at midnight of New Years Eve that we know from Europe or other countries is what we have here for hours and days.... and beautiful fireworks just in front of your windows on all sites of the house, every minute... it is soooo cheap here and Chinese love the noise!

Our driver bought tons of firework-boxes, no need to have a pyrotechnician. Our son preferred to watch from the car - too loud, too dangerous (some rockets explode too low and burning things might fall down) - and the air is totally polluted. A volcano eruption could not do much more harm to the air (today I really have breathing problems). Well then I should not go outside, but we did for some minutes and I took some pictures (above and below):

One of the biggest firework boxes I have seen (front left), around 600 RMB (60 Euro) for 100 rockets.

Full moon over Dongzhimen with firework and leaveless trees. The full moon tonight (lantern festival) marks the end of the New Year celebrations in China.

Just in case you are curious: 434 is the number of Beijingers injured by fireworks during the first seven days of the Spring Festival (People's Daily via That's Beijing online from Feb 14).

BTW, sleepless in Beijing - the other night I could not sleep because I was too busy and too much thinking about our housing project in Pizzo. This also kept me away from posting here.

But things are calming down. Good night from Beijing and Happy New Year !!

Chinese New Year 2008

Firework sets and boxes are for sale in the streets of Beijing

We are leaving the city for Chinese New Year, as are millions and millions of other Chineses and laowai, foreigners.

I read that 200 million Chinese are travelling home this year. As you have probably read, heard or seen in your international media this year has the worst winter conditions since 50 years. Millions of migrant workers want to go home to see their families. It is the most important Chinese holiday. Some see their families, including their young children only once a year. Heavy snow and ice in many parts of the country (except Beijing) have blocked railways and shot down power lines, thus millions of travellers got stranded.

My ayi left last Saturday together with her husband, who works as a carpenter in Beijing. They went home to see their 8 year old son and their parents and siblings in Anhui province. I am really releaved to hear from our driver, who brought them to the railway station that they made it home. She text messaged him that she had arrived, after a train ride of over 30 hours.... last year it took her 17 hours. We gave her extra money to be able to buy a better ticket in the sleeper on her way back. Apparently it is not possible to buy a return ticket in Beijing, only in her home town. Or it has to do that her husband's company only buys one way tickets to go home. Anyway, she will be anxiously awaited here in Beijing in two weeks. But I told her that I do not mind if she cannot get an earlier ticket... I feel bad that she takes care of my son while she cannot see her own son. It is one of the problems that migrant workers are facing. Chinese kids only can go to school where their parents are registered and the registrations seems for some too expensive - but more expensive than that are the school fees in Beijing in comparison to the schools in the countryside.

I also feel sorry for the 12.46 million migrant workers that will remain in Guangdong for the Spring Festival due to the bad weather. It is not only that they probably face terrible conditions during their stay, but that they miss the reunion with their beloved-ones.

China Daily, an English language newspaper, does report factually about that subject. I guess other international media are jumping on that subject and reporting individual fates. But also Chinese media seems to report more. The picture left shows a soldier with a flame thrower melting ice off frozen power-lines in Yunnan on the cover of Qilu Evening News of February 4th (photo via Danwei). It looks like James Bond is fighting for China. I heard also from my neighbour, who is Chinese, that the people who got stocked for 40 hours in a train couldn't use the bathrooms and used noodle cups instead... Now we have arrived at one of my favorite subjects... the Chinese loos... However I could not get the confirmation of another rumor that was reported a year ago - that people on a train would wear adult diapers because the trains are so full that there is no way to make it through to a loo.

But when is Chinese New Year after all?

This year New Year's Eve is on February 6th. So beware, the fire crackers will explode all day long! And for those who do not know, fire works are on sale since some days in front of supermarkets or at street crossings (above picture from last Friday night). You can buy the biggest red box with thousand of rockets that fires for 20 minutes for 50 to 80 Euro. Amazing. That is why you hear fire works already now every evening, even during day time. Althoug it seems to be illegal to fire your rockets before the 6th when you live inside the 4th ring road. But the higlight will be the night from the 6th to the 7th, when the year of the Pig ends and the year of the Rat - or more cute, the year of the Mouse - starts. The 7th is the first day of the New Year and is a real holiday. Even Yashow market & company closes its doors. The staff will stay home, just for one day.

The celebrations will go on for a week, meaning more fire works during the evenings. If I remember well, the lantern festival, this year on February 21st, will be the last day and showdown of fire works. Two years ago there were "detonations" all day long until around 2 am.

This last weekend were two working days. And who has not left yet is leaving on the 6th, like we do. There are an estimated 22 million people using the plane to travel home this Chinese New Year Holiday (10% more than in 2007). Hopefully not all on the 6th from Beijing airport...

Xin Nain Kuai Le!, Happy New Year

or

春节快乐!
Chun Jie Kuai Le!
Happy Chinese New Year!

Beijing: architectural wonder (part II)

Of course another wonder of architecture needs to be mentioned. It is the China National Grand Theater of Beijing that opened on January 1st, 2008. It looks amazing from the outside.

"Three vast theatres are encased within the "tear drop" outer shell , which is made of titanium and glass. Built at a cost of 2.7 billion yuan (about 270 mio Euro), the building is surrounded by water and looks as if it has no entrance. With state-of-the-art equipment, its 2,416-seat opera house, 2,017-seat concert hall, and 1,040-seat theatre are expected to draw the world's best orchestras, operas and musicals, as well as domestic productions." (Guardian)

The inside's charm has to develop. So far you do not know where the underground parking ends and the theater hallway begins. Probably where the airport like metal detectors and handbag screens await you and determined staff take your water bottle away. Even it might have the best acoustics and most modern techniques, it can't compete with the atmosphere of any classic opera house in Europe. At least as long they have pinkish plastic flower arrangements pending along the hallway.

Happy New Year !

(photo: creative Coke advertising in Beijing at a bus station)

Happy New Year 2008 !

I am back in Beijing after a busy Christmas holiday back in my hometown in Germany. I guess every visit back home is just too short to see all friends and family members and spend enough time with them. Especially when you have these long holidays when all the shops are closed in good old Germany. Imagine: you have only a half day for grocery shopping on December 24Th (Monday) to stock for 3 breakfasts, 2 lunch and 3 dinners more or less until shops are open again December 27Th (Thursday) ... similar thing on Monday 31st. You can imagine the queues...
And you want to meet friends and parents want to meet you...

I have almost adjusted from jet lag. Here are some news from Beijing:

* first new thing on the plane: no more health form needs to be filled out. So from 3 forms down to 2 forms to fill out before immigration. Progress for 2008 where half million foreigners a expected in Beijing!

* the magazine I am writing for, tbj home, is gone, kaput, no more. BUT: it lives on in the form of urbane - a new name for "China's best English lifestyle magazine" (I am citing). New is the name and that it's distributed not only in Beijing but all over China (I am not sure if the first issue in January is already distributed all over China). And I am still in.

* If you stay with kids in Beijing: the magazine tbj kids is getting better and better. Since the new editor re-designed the magazine it is really worth reading. And the website is informative as well with a blog and a forum.

* In Germany I heard that the exhibition of Chinese terracotta warriors in Hamburg was stopped as some of the worriers that were deemed as originals were fakes. I was smiling about that 'scandal'. Hey, what do you expect? In China copying is a form of art. I am also amused to read at Danwei that someone somewhere heard a gossip that maybe all terracotta warriors, even the ones in Xian, might be made by modern hand (and original clay, of course). Read Danwei's (German) critical article here.

* One more thing about China and the German media. It seems more a la mode than ever to write about China. Of course the world focuses on China because of the upcoming big event, the Olympics 2008, that start on August 8 at 8.08 in Beijing. So I read articles in Germany about migrant workers, Chinglish, etiquette training, Chinese art scene etc.

* The air quality report (see blogroll) is back online. Even if the air of downtown Beijing is not surveyed anymore on the busiest streets but in less polluted areas, I am glad it is reported again. (I am not sitting at a traffic junction all day).

* Today I passed by a river near Liangma flower market and looked twice through the window as I could not recognize the area. It took a moment until I realized that all the hutong houses were demolished and cleaned up. I remembered that I wanted to take some photos there as it was a picturesque area in the middle of a developed business and residential area. Too late.

* In China we are still in the old year of the PIG. The new year of the RAT is still to come. Chinese New Year will be celebrated a week long in February and is a national holiday. My ayi wants to take off two weeks, better three weeks! help! The trip to her hometown in Anhui province takes 19 hours by train. She will be reunited with her 9 year old son and family.

* The national holidays in May, the May Golden Week, instead is cancelled by the government. This change was made in order to avoid the negative effects when millions of Chinese are travelling and to allow flexible holidays.


I discovered this photo art by Floriane de Lassee, a young photographer born in 1977 in Paris. It is available via the photo art gallery Lumas. It is not Beijing. It is Shanghai. She didn't do any shot in Beijing, but in Tokyo, Singapore, Paris, Istanbul, NY... I am fascinated and that's why I am posting it on my Beijing Notebook. Click on the picture to enlarge. Happy New Year!

Beijing: Dashanzi 798 Art District

On a sunny Sunday afternoon we like to go for a walk at Dashanzi Art District. Kids can run around and adults get something to see. 798 Art Zone or Dashanzi Art District is in the North East of Beijing. It used to be a military factory 50 years ago. The destruction is on hold regarding the Art District's role as tourist attraction during the Olympics next year.


The area is often called the 798 Art District or Factory 798 although technically, Factory 798 is only one of several structures within a complex formerly known as Joint Factory 718. Read more and more...


Some impressions from Dashanzi 798 this year:

Invited by the Empress of China

Recently, on a beautiful early September morning, I payed a visit to Beijing's Summer Palace (yiheyuan).







I had received an invitation to an audience with the Empress Dowager Cixi.


I was in company of three other elegant ladies from various embassies in Peking.

At the Summer Palace, we were accompanied by an eunuch guard and greeted by two young Princesses.

"None of us had ever been present at an audience. We all had heard much of the Empress Dowager Cixi, and above all things else we were anxious to see her whom they called the "The Dragon Lady."

"As we looked at the Empress Dowager seated upon her throne (...) awed by her majestic bearing and surroundings, we involuntarily gave the three courtesies required from those entering the imperial presence. We could not but feel that this stately woman who sat upon the throne was every inch an empress. In her hands rested the weal or woe of one-third of the human race. Her brilliant black eyes seemed to read our thoughts. Indeed she prides herself upon the fact that at a glance she can read the character of every one that appears before her."

Do you follow me?

The above real story took place in summer 1903.

In reality, my invitation to the Summer Palace was not by the Empress herself but by CCTV, the biggest Chinese television company. After they had made a documentary about the Forbidden City, they now are working on a documentary about the Summer Palace. Four foreign actresses were wanted for the scene in 1903, when Empress Cixi met ladies from foreign embassies for an audience in her Summer Palace. This took place after the boxer rebellion in Beijing against foreigners and foreign-influences.

My western colleagues, an American, a Spanish and a Russian lady, and I enjoyed our new job a lot. Although we had to start early in the morning around 3am and 5am respectively for make-up and hair. The dressing was done later on the scene - with tourists taking pictures of us.



The End...


Our last picture shows us, the foreign diplomatic ladies, together with Empress Cixi and handsome director Wang Wei Da in front of the last setting, the Hall of Longevity at the Summer Palace in Beijing.

The documentary will be on air on Channel CCTV 1 next year, in February or March, reaching out to 1,300,000,000 Chinese and some foreigners.

The Summer Palace was added to UNESCO's list of World Heritage Sites in 1998.

more links:
Court Life in China by Isaac Taylor Headland (source of the quotation)
About Cixi or TzuhSi
About Boxer Rebellion
About Summer Palace

more pictures:
View my flickr Set

Moon Festival

The Chinese Moon Festival is always on the 15th day of the 8th month by the Chinese lunar calendar. This year it will be celebrated on September, 25th. It's also known as the Mid-autumn Festival. Similar to Thanksgiving and celebrating the harvest time, the Moon Festival is an occasion to celebrate with family and friends. It is full of legendary stories.

Children are told the story of the moon fairy living in a crystal palace, who comes out to dance on the moon's surface on the night of the Moon Festival. It is the legend about lady Chang Er who flew to the moon.

The legend behind the moon cakes says that during the Yuan dynasty (1280-1368) China was ruled by the Mongolian people. Leaders from the preceding Sung dynasty (960-1280) were unhappy at submitting to foreign rule and set how to coordinate the rebellion without being discovered. The leaders of the rebellion, knowing that the Moon Festival was drawing near, ordered the making of special cakes. Backed into each moon cake was a message with the outline of the attack. On the night of the Moon Festival, the rebels successfully attacked and overthrew the government. What followed was the establishment of the Ming dynasty (1368-1644).

Today, moon cakes are used as gifts to relatives in expression of their best wishes. But also companies give away beautiful boxes with single wrapped moon cakes to show their appreciations to employees and business partners. In Beijing every hotel sells its own moon cake creations with various fillings (see picture above). Some people refer the especially bad traffic before the Moon Festival to moon cakes drives back and forward.

The Moon Festival is also a romantic one. A perfect night for the festival is if it is a quiet night without a silk of cloud and with a little mild breeze from the sea. Lovers spend such a romantic night together tasting the delicious moon cake with some wine while watching the full moon. Even for a couple who can't be together, they can still enjoy the night by watching the moon at the same time so it seems that they are together at that hour. A great number of poetry has been devoted to this romantic festival. Hope the Moon Festival will bring you happiness.

source:
About Chinese Culture
Beijing This Month (photo from this free monthly English magazine)

Beijing and What to Do with your Time

You are a local, an expat, an expat spouse or a visitor with no tight 3-day-sightseeing-schedule and have been there and done it all.

So what you do with your free time?

Here is my little BRAINSTORM - so no judgement, just more ideas please:

Learning and practicing
* ... Chinese (two to there time per week is recommended)
* ... Tai Chi / Tai Qi
* ... painting (traditional Chinese Style: ink and wash)
* ... calligraphy
* ... photography (to document the fading beauty)
* ... yoga
* ... mahjong (to get a feeling for decadent but fun gambling)
* ... acupuncture (you might practice after you have your certificate)

Hearing lectures about
* ... Traditional Chinese Medicine / TCM
* ... Feng Shui (not that popular in Beijing)

* Reading books about China, Chinese Culture and history

* Massage (traditional Chinese Foot Massage or Body Massage, no oil - at Tai Pan, Bhodi or Dragonfly)

* Pedicure and Manicure (cheaper than in the West)

* Writing about your impressions for the media back home, local media or on your blog

Meeting people with
* Chinese Culture Club (weekly activities, lectures and trips)
* INN - International Newcomer's Network (monthly meeting, lectures)
* Deutsche Patengruppe (monthly get-together and trips)
* British Club
* several kids groups
* several interest groups that advertise in the local magazines

The different shopping:
* Shopping at the local food market (e.g. San Yuan Le market hall in Sanlitun)
* Shopping at Jiayi cloth market, opposite Kunlun Hotel (stressless than Yashow)
* Shopping at Ritan Office Building (building at the South-East of Ritan Park - in every former little office room is a little boutique with lots of real finds). After shopping stroll a bit through Ritan Park and have a drink at the Stone Boat Bar (at the West end of the park).

The different 'sight seeing':
* Riding the bicycle around the city (between first and third ring road)
* Strolling the hutongs around the Houhai area; rent a boat, bike or rikshaw
* spending hours at Chaoyang Park where children can go on merry-go-rounds and some old fashion fair rides, just walk around the greenery, have a picnic, rent a boat, tent or 'golf cart' (Chaoyang), observe locals working out ...
* ride a boat through the 800 year old canal between Forbidden City and Summer Palace. The tour usually includes stops at the Purple Bamboo Garden and a couple of temples (book e.g. with Chinese Culture Club about twice a month)
* go on a daytrip outside Beijing with the Beijing Excursion Guide by Immersion Guides

...

This is about how busy you could get as an expat spouse !

Links:
Deutsche Patengruppe
International Newcomer's Network
Chinese Culture Club
A Matter of Chi (pricy Feng Shui lecture)
Oriental Tai Pan (massage)
Bodhi (massage)
Dragonfly (massage)
City Weekend (events)
That's Beijing (7 Days in Beijing, events)
Beijing Excursion Guide

Beijing: The Marathon Girl or Another form of Child Abuse ?

3.560 km from Sanya, Hainan Province to Beijing in 55 days. Little Zhang Huimin, 8 years old was running and running and running. She weighs only 20 kilo and is 1,25 cm tall. Every day she got up 2.30 am and ran an average of 70 km, accompanied by her father on his motorized bicycle. They arrived in Beijing on August, 28 where they made it to the front page of the China Daily.

Is this another form of child abuse? Chinese parents are very ambitious with their offsprings. You might call it pro-active parenting when a four year old get tennis and piano lessons. But when a father sends his three year old daughter running 3 km a day dreaming her to win the marathon at the 2016 Olympics. What is that?

The father's training methods have been widely criticized (see relevant Independent article) and the girl's picture on the front page of a Chinese Newspaper at Danwei.

Matchmaking in China

The Chinese matchmaking website Baije.com held a Chinese Valentine's Day(*) meeting at a Beijing park last weekend. More than 2,000 people attended. The organiser said 30 % of the attendees were parents of singles trying to find the right match for their children. Parents even register on the website to find online potential partners for their children.

Matchmaking has a long tradition in China. In the countryside parents would go to see the matchmaker of the village to find the match for their son or daughter.

--------------------
(*) The Chinese Valentine's Day takes place at the seventh lunar day of the sevens lunar month and flowers a given to loved ones, same like on the worldwide Valentine's Day on February 14th.